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To be honest they've just changed it. I'm still getting used to the new one myself...

Thought you said it was, "a friend"? :unsure: The plates will do the job just fine - the issue is the difficulty of rendering over. There were multiple other options that may have been preferable. Sistering the joists and Bow Tie-ing into the sistered joists would have been a much better...

You simply drill the ties into the ends of the joists: See here

Did you also look at the superficial deposits layer on the maps? They can be of considerable depth and if so the bedrock may not be relevant, depending on the particular circumstances. However, that's why nearby boreholes may offer a better idea of nearby conditions if available. Without...

2 Units of electricity? That's a pretty big wager at today's prices!

The fact that there aren't any cracks on the outside of the walls is a good sign. Subsidence cracks usually run diagonally and through corners of windows. One of the photos shows a crack from the corner of the window, but this type of crack is also not uncommon where there are failed lintels...

Take the plates back off and redo the restraint with Helifix Bow Ties...

Correct. I’m assuming the trough will be 2m long and not 2m high (wouldn’t really be a trough then). So the worst design case is at the base of the 2m long side. However, as Woody says, the return walls will help immensely in stiffening the wall, and masonry has much higher flexural strength...

I'm actually refurbishing a narrowboat at the moment and I noticed when I stripped out that there was no vapour barrier of any description behind the cladding. Due to this, the unprotected steel hull had a fair bit of flaking rust on the inner face. This won't be an issue for your aluminium but...

Agreed. But no-one here knows how to do that calculation to prove it :rolleyes::giggle:

Have you been told why the trial pit is required, and exactly what you are looking for?

A degree or diploma in civil engineering would be a good starting point. I guess failing that you could read the Structural Masonry Designer's Manual and BS5628 or EC6. No chance... You need to calculate it based on the load and the bearing capacity of the existing masonry, otherwise it's just...

The block won't crumble, but you might have issues with the plug slipping under the weight of your fat arse :LOL: You need fixings rated for the pull out and shear force but resin anchors would work with fully cleaned out holes.

I agree re. the roof coming off. They just need to prop the ridge and remove and replace the steel. Won't need pads for the posts - loads will be next to nothing - as said earlier in the thread I doubt the posts were even needed for such a small span, although they might be if the opening was...

I guess if the roof is coming off and the steelwork and window are both being remade, now is the perfect time to think about reducing the size of the returns and having a larger glazed panel :unsure:

How are they going to correct it? What have they told you they will actually do?

Nothing to worry about. Looks like a minor shrinkage crack. If it's stable just leave it. If rendering or plastering might be worth bonding some mesh jointing tape over the crack prior to plastering to prevent the crack coming through the plaster

Doesn't really matter as far as energy efficiency goes. If you want better thermal efficiency put in more insulation. Either way, make sure there is 25mm insulation around the external perimeter of the slab / screed as that will prevent the thermal bridge to the masonry. A concrete slab will...

The issue with timber would be creating the connection at the crank. It would need to be a cranked steel plate with lots of bolts through it and the timber. Could probably be done with a single piece of engineered wood but probably more expensive than steel. Plus the deflection and lateral...

Carrying the ridge beam, which is needed because it's a vaulted roof.