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Battery knackered? Not accepting the charge?

I'm with deluks - if I can't measure wind speed with my weather station from my bed I'm not happy..... double glazing? for wimps....

Who would have thought a site devoted to rambling about diy would give birth to such a detailed and broadly represented debate on the merits of such a diverse range of photographic equipment ?!....... Show this to everyone who thinks builders are thick and diy-ers are the dullest people on...

Go via messenger, you can set it up to get straight to their inbox in 3 clicks. Install messenger if not already on the machine and place a link in the bottom menu bar on the desktop next to start[Click One]. In the messenger box you can save the email address and password so that when the...

Shouldn't be too concerned - has it appeared or just not been noticed before? If you have been affected by all the water this summer then all the shifting water tables and saturation and drying out of subsoil may have caused it. If you're worried put a stick on marker across the gap and watch it...

Possibly just an americanisation - see general discussion forum note USA!

With the loadings you have it is unlikely to sag but all the same, PCC is the way to go. Pre-Cast Concrete is the expanded acronym!

I thought America was a made up place for slow news days..... Is it really real .... like the isle of man? Incredible.....

You can get cat flaps for UPVC doors, it would be easier than putting it in the wall - can cut through it by drilling a hole at each corner and joining them up with a hacksaw. Better with that method I think. Good luck

Socket & ratchet?!

Is whatever you hit still stuck in the blade?

If you can scribe the architrave to the plaster that will prevent you causing surrounding plaster to fall away but if it's only a few localised snots and the plaster is still fairly fresh you may be able to scrape it flush with a wood chisel or scraper

For your own piece of mind get a structural engineer to check the calcs but 150 is as you say recommended and not statutory. BC will accept if you can present calcs from a qualified person to support you proposal.

I design commercial interiors and ALWAYS specify satin for everything. It is more forgiving than gloss and less tricky to finish neatly. Also, gloss looks quite harsh, particularly in your home where you would probably want a softer feeling from the decor. Go for satinwood, you'll be pleaseed...

For the 10 quid a PCC one will cost you I shouldn't bother! But were a PCC one 500 quid I would still say no. Concrete is strong in compression but not tension. The reason PCC lintels work is that they are pre-stressed, ie formed with a curve. This has been calculated to each lintel section &...

Oh dear, it's not your day is it!! But, simple job, whip the door frame out, get the new lintel in, mortar above lintel, prop it with akro's, pack beneath the ends and point in [slate is good for packing - very strong in compression and thin enough to get accurate packing heights] Leave props...

Can't you put it in a door? Wall construction most likely 2 skins of masonry -brick/block inner - with uninsulated 50mm cavity, overall thickness 250mm. In terms of forming the hole a bolster chisel and lump hammer will do the job but be careful where you place the hole, depending on the size...

Agree with noseall & modernmaterials. Building regs a yes [while a fensa contactor could do the window replacement they are unlikely to take responsibilty for the other element where an opening needs to be altered so becomes a BC issue. Structural engineer a yes - definitely for replacing walls...

Yes, you can support your new floor off the existing gable. Fix a wall plate and use joist hangers to carry the new floor joists.

One lintel per skin, Catnic fine, PCC cheaper, if both walls to be internal then will no doubt be boarded over so no need to spend on Catnic