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There should be one lintel per skin - unusual that there is only one - is it a single skin wall? Again, unusual [read disaster!] if anything other than a single storey shed. Should get a new lintel which is long enough to get the correct bearing on each side of the aperture - 100 to 150mm ok...

If you're confident in your abilities and the aperture is already there then there is nothing to stop you replacing the lintel. When new doorways are formed in existing walls each face of masonry is cut out to insert the lintel anyway so you there is a period where the masonry above is not fully...

Asbestos generates a fibrous dust when it loses it's integrity so provided the filter is more dense than the proven dimension of the dust [in microns] then that would be ok. Asbestos does not generate vapours but I can't really tell you what PPE you should use. A paper overall may seem a little...

Confirm it with your local BCO but regs only state a maximum rise, not minimum, although consistency of rise heights is important. If the stringer & 1st riser are suitable for trimming I don't foresee any problems with what you propose, although any deviations from standard should be run by the...

Oh, and material cost for GypLyner roughly £9/m2 inc boards @ £1.20/m2 & waste. Does create quite a void but helpful if you need to 1st fix M&E

If you're only trying to lose a few mm then dabs should be ok, get a very long spirit level [or use a good length of sturdy timber -3x1, 4x2] for tapping the boards on to spead the dabs, will help you plumb the board without warping it.

Trust me! It works a treat and has not done any damage to the paintwork, I've been doing it for years, on the audi, the volvo before and the range rover before that!!! It may just be my laziness - I have the intensive tar / bug remover stuff - but the clean wheels is quicker!

Alternative is a cherry picker [boom type MEWP] if you can get one in. If it's only to fit birdstops then it would be vastly cheaper than scaffold. Scaffolding only necessary if major works are being done and could cost a thousand pounds, maybe less, maybe more, depends on access and how long it...

What is the thickness of your new floor covering? Presume the 2" you have to play with is from threshold down to existing floor level, so 4" from threshold to lowest point at the other end? You could still achieve this using 4x2 reg treated timber by ripping it down to 1" @ the top end to 3" at...

If the filling is neat then don't worry about it, just cut the window board to suit. If you have a thick window board then fix it directly to the reveal. If the window board is thin then fix the ply to the board first - short screws through the ply into the back of the board with a bit of...

Is the car a few years old? It shouldn't have happened really but it could be wear in the mechanism. They work like the plungers on steam train wheels. If the spindle in the end of the arm wears it will not be pushed far enough to go over centre and complete it's cycle. Go to a breakers and get...

Take a photograph of it close up and post it, we'll have a look. If it's got a paper like surface texture but is hard to touch, with tiny fibres and possibly little shiny specks then it is probably an asbestos based cement panel / fibre cement board, whatever you want to call it. It was widely...

You're more than welcome. Not sure about B&Q but Watco [mail order] do all sorts. Quite pricey but they seem to have a ready mixed pot of something for every eventuality! Buying a bag of sand and a bag of cement to patch a couple of holes will feel like a waste - although will be a lot...

I stand corrected! Had assumed it was the rock hard stuff you get under thermoplastic tiles. Surely if it's soft you must have scraped it all back already? Get a bladed scraper and get it all off. Bitumen [correct me if I'm wrong - I'm sure someone will!] I think I'm right in saying is a mineral...

BC can't stop you doing what you like inside the confines of your own home. However, if there is a fire or other such disaster as a result of works you have carried out [or even completely unrelated] which do not comply you will be liable for some fairly hefty kneecapping - probably via the HSE...

Just spotted the truss centres on the sketch, if that is the spacing of all the sections shown on the sketch then truss roof it is. Get an engineer involved, couple of hundred quid should give you an answer and a report. If this is a proper loft conversion remember you will need building regs...

Presumably it's tie beam 'B' you want to remove? What's the age of the property & the construction type? Is it a cutt roof or engineered trusses? [Trusses will be consistently matched and have galv plates at the joints, cutt roof will have a couple of large purlins running across the slope of...

Depending on the spacing of the holes and if they're very messy you could core drill out where the original holes are to a decent depth - 75mm or so, don't go through to the cavity if an external wall - and then point in with a decent mortar mix. Would be better to move your WHB to one side to...

For some reason the image I had in my head was of the low end being opposite end to the garage door - strange the way the mind works!! If garage is not too long / deep along the fall why not scribe a length of skirting or similar to the floor, trim it and use as a pattern and rip down some...

Try fixing a batten to the wall sitting above the skirting to a top height to match a stock skirting profile - anything the same thickness as the existing will do - then fit a standard skirting over both, fill the joint, rub down and paint. Will be thicker than a standard skirting obviously but...