Search results

better to just turn the water on.

you would be better off hiring a power flush machine and use it along with the filter, the filter will only remove some of what get into it, the machine will remove alot more due to high flow rates, dumping properly. use acid if you dont have a alu heat exchanger.

just make sure you dont block access needed for maintenance of the boiler and case.

it works so dont worry about it, crack on with the bathroom.

anyone can detect a gas leak, well anyone wilth the sense of smell.

what requirements for zoning? is your house over 150m2 install the system to suit you and your familys life/ needs, dont worry about who says wat about dis or dat, if you think having zones will be of benifit in use and energy saving then go for it, if you think your happy being able to turn...

normally the flames should not impinge on the metalwork of a fire, coal position can effect the flames alot and the flue pull also.

16lpm is not enough for the boiler your looking at as this flow will be shared between the hot and cold. The guy whos quoted the upgrade seems to be looking to do the job correclty as many would break the regs and manufacturers instructions and not even upgrade. phone him up and tell him to...

it should be removed and capped along with the supply or atleast capped in position on the outlet side, many dont bother and just use the ecv in the off position after a tightness test. Removing it is the correct way so it sounds like he was doing it right.

plumbers wont normally use them but when you consider the cost of a bender they are a good idea for a diyer.

25-50mm if you dont have the toilet pan.

there traps have been pants for years, there pushfit is quite good from my experience as long as you pressure test it.

it doh really matter who did what and when, it just needs to be right if altered at the time.

your unvented hot water cylinder will (should) have independant controls and the "loops" can and do operate seperate of each other. The cylinder must have a zone valve fitted to its heat source.

Just make sure your registered engineer has his meters on his card, it needs a floor bracket fixed to the floor. your gas pipework wants to be rerouted so it does not cross the electrical stuff.

why not get a test / report done on the existing installation by another sparks for your peace of mind. I would atleast expect to be told the reasons behind the required extra work and not just be told it just needs to be done.

With bathrooms you get what you pay for really and for a room that may stay the same for 15-20 years its best to get it right. It takes time to 1st fix a bathroom well and alittle thought. It cant be crashed in unless your just looking for a straight swap. Bathroom im doing currently ive spent...

dynamic pressure reading is what you want but i cant think yours is not going to be very good with a static of 12 and a good flow rate.

shall traps are good for replacing like for like as most old metal traps were that size. Alot of new builds jobs still use shall bath traps because of the depth of the bath and not being able to sink the trap into the timber floor. Its not right but its done.

BG like other large companies have some really good and some really bad engineers. I know some good and they offten tell me about the bad which normally makes me laugh and sometimes alittle shocked. Large companies are capable of covering up mistakes quite easy as its there other engineers that...