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In my case the radial would not be just a long chain, but more of a tree with separate branches. So if I can bond the ends to the radiator pipes, that would be great, otherwise it looks like I would have to run an additional earth wire alongside everything. They probably don't make 2.5mm cable...

I am new to UK wiring, having done quite a bit of DIY in Canada, and was looking over the rules here. I am looking at BS7671:2018 543.7.1.203 and it looks like circuits with sockets where the earth leakage can exceed 10mA require two paths to earth. This comes naturally with a ring circuit, but...

Do you need to notify building control if you install a buffer tank in a central heating system?

True. But I estimate I need to make it at 10 litres/minute to be useful. The bigger the exchanger, the lower the tank temperature can be and still keep up. As you pointed out with an infinite exchanger I could get 210 liters. So I want to know how much I can get with 210kW at 10 liters/minute.

I think they are quite a bit bigger than those that are in a typical combi. The combi can supply a steady stream of 80C water to the primary side of the exchanger, but here the tank will start at 70C and quit at maybe 50C?, so I suppose the exchanger will need to be much larger to account for...

It has similar dimensions to this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07F1HKH2S Which is the same wattage.

I was looking at this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hrale-Stainless-Steel-Exchanger-Plates/dp/B003JLQK9M But I imagine 210kw only applies if you can maintain an average 40C gradient across the exchanger, which is not realistic in this case.

You don't really need any more pressure than that required to raise the water to the highest point, but if the system is sealed, how are going to figure out what that is exactly? And why would you bother trying to determine that pressure for each installation? 10 meters is 1 bar, so run it at...

To be fair 1 bar is not so much higher, and they probably want a little wiggle room.

I am trying to determine how much 45C water can be generated with a water cylinder and a plate exchanger under the following assumptions - 300 liter cylinder at 70C - 210Kw plate exchanger (rated @40C delta?) - plate exchanger primary flow of 30l/minute - fresh water infeed temperature of 10C -...

I realize this statement is not correct, as it is not an overheat situation. In an overheat situation, which I don't think I've ever seen, you should see mostly steam, even though it should be mostly water by mass. It would be more steam by volume, but more water by mass.

The change of state from water to steam requires a lot of energy. In fact it takes as much energy to convert water at steam both at 100C at it does to heat water to from 100C to just over 600C. This energy has to come from somewhere. If you release the pressure on 101C water, around .2% percent...

A common misconception I've often read about unvented systems is that if you were to release the pressure from a system operating at 3.5 bar and with a temperature of 140C, that all of the water would instantly turn into steam. This is not true. It takes a lot of energy to change 100C water into...

I ran my Vaillant at 1 bar, it was in the loft. If I went much lower it would fault saying not enough pressure. I suppose to protect against water loss, and they had to set the limit somewhere.

Looking at plate exchangers for a DIY heat bank. Anyone have experience with either of these brands? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07F1HKH2S or https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hrale-Stainless-Steel-Exchanger-Plates/dp/B003JLQK9M

So if Savo takes that valve off, what are they left with? just a 10mm pipe sticking out? The TRVs I bought also came with little brass adapters for 10mm. He will also need a tail wrench because the fitting on the rad looks like it will need to be changed as well.

The valve in the picture I posted has a 15mm compression fitting, even though it doesn't look like it (note it has 15 cast in the brass), so a new one will swap right in. The only tricky bit is getting the olive off. I did a few at my place last weekend and there was no cutting or soldering...

Here is what it looks like assembled from the bottom.

Here is what mine look like taken apart. The bottom of that copper adapter was soldered onto the 10mm pipe. It was the first time I had seen that type of compression fitting, with a male thread on the nut, and female on the valve. The new ones will be the other way around.

My TRVs look like the one on the top, and even though the pipe is 10mm, there is a small adapter there that brings it up to 15mm. The adapter is soldered on to the 10mm, and you are right it is a bit weird because it has a 15mm outside diameter on one end, and 10mm inside on the other. Although...