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LMQ have got a good reputation I am surprised by this.

That could be leaking anywhere. Surely they have not laid a fibreglass straight on top of an old felt roof.

Normally you leave a minimum of 25mm gap between the insulation and boarding. You can leave a small gap if you wish but I am not sure it is essential. Usually we fix the counter battens through the boarding into the rafters and fix the membrane on top. How big is your roof ?

How big is your roof ?

The work you want done is simple for a Lead worker but it is beyond the ability of most roofers. Lead work is tradionaly done by plumbers. Most roofers are fine for a bit of flashing but can not cut and burn lead. It is like asking a mechanic to spray your car because he regularly works on cars,

The reason to do the Lead in the manner I described is so that the Lead can move and expand contract As soon as you stick the lead with Leadmate or any other sealant you will stop the movement of the lead and it will buckle and split. That is a fact, do not waste your money with these people...

Please do not let anyone who suggests fixing Lead capping with leadmate anywhere near your roof. The capping should be done in code 5 or over : It should be fitted in lengths of 2m maximum. The sections should be joined together with interlocking welts, each upturned welt should be fixed down...

On a roof like yours I would keep with slates as original .

sounds reasonable to me but there is no mention of renewing the flashing at the top abutment , if he is going to redress the old one make sure the lead is ok.

The cement fillet has cracked due movement and frost . The best idea is to replace the fillet with Lead step flashing. Most roofers now would want a scaffold up to do the work, due to H&S issues.

B.S 5534 states that all single lap tiles should be mechanically fixed since April 2015

They have got lugs but all interlocking tiles should now be nailed or clipped.

if your roof is formed of trusses and has no ridge board low level only may be ok, but normally high level venting is specified.

If the roof is falling in that direction there should be a gutter there which would collect the water as it drips off and take it to a downpipe.

The slates should be bedded as you go not back pointed afterwards.

Spanish slates are not as durable as Welsh slates and will not lay as flat as Welsh, but if installed by a decent slater they will last for about 50 years and they cost about a quarter the price of a Welsh slate. Do not get tempted to buy a chinese slate

The most common size is 500x250 and takes 19 slates per sqm assuming a 75mm lap. They will cost about £1.20 each for a reasonable quality slate.

If there is aqua seal the muck will not bond properly and so the dry ridge system does seem like a good idea. I would say the price is above average but if is reputable then it is worth it for a good job.

A gutter like that should be done in code 5 Lead with an expansion joint welded between the sections of Lead which should be no longer than 2m. When you remove the existing rubbish you will probably need to carry out quite a bit of timber work.

Joe-90 you may not be aware but you do not have soakers on interlocking tiles, any to re- new the flashings and back gutter along ith the pointing and flaunching would cost a lot more than £250