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John, I know people do do it, but buying an old secondhand door is not a good idea. That door has already been cut, and undoubtly cut out of square, to fit a frame just like yours. Trouble is, NO two doorways are ever out of square in the same manner. I know of several customers of mine...

Hi Sue and welcome! Us rich chippies (Huh! lol) use expensive electric saws that will cut that deep, so never have that problem ( cor, I flipping wish!), but, why not cut as far as you can go with the mitre saw (I presume you're laying the skirting down and cutting across it?) Then draw a...

I'm going to disagree slightly with John (No offence! :lol: ). The most secure method is still undoubtly a 7 lever traditional mortice lock. BUT exactly the same applies to both sorts. You get what you pay for! A good quality euro lock has a steel tumbler (as opposed to brass) in the forth...

Magpie, Woodulike has really said it all. There isn't a way that is totally correct, it depends a lot on the situation and the fitters personal choice. My own preferred method, is to use a good quality foam underlay and to glue the T&G joints, thus creating a floating floor. But thats only...

dont miss achance do you? ;-) woody

yep it's a job you can do yourself. I'm just a tad confused though, are you going to replace ALL the boards or just some? If it's all of them they dont need sanding. Modern board will be just a tiny bit smaller both in thickness and width, then the originals, so, if you just replace some...

yeah, good point thermo. Never think of steel wool for things like that. Woody

Wedge, £15 is a pretty good rate. It does depend on where you are, around here I charge between £20 and £30 depending on exactly how many, and what is involved. (If it's only one, I charge at least £30 due to the time, effort travelling etc.). But I know quite a lot of chippies around the...

I am tempted not answer this due to the comments we posted in the "tools and materials column",, you then told us you got a great saw, then this posting... however, read the instruction booklet and it should tell you how to do it. Basically yes, but you also need to check the compound mitre...

ahhh hemmm, is there something youre not telling us? something about the mitgre not being square and you need help to set it up????? judging by the post in the chippies forum I would say so. It is preceily that reason why we recomended a better qaulity saw. Woody

glad to hear you're sorted, hope it works well for you. woody

If the wooden peices are Toungue and groove, it might be easier and cheaper to replace them. It really wouldn't cost much prob about a tenner. failing that, a small pointed sander? Woody

Bigall is totally correct, however the modern trend seems to be to just leave a 10mm gap all the way round and cover with beading. Woody

wouldn't worry about treating it. Woody

:lol:

OK< I'm a bit puzzled. I assume that if they supply runners, then they expect you to afix the door to the carcase with the usual hinges and also afix the door to the F/F via the runners. If that IS the case, then they must have allowed sufficient room between the door and the F/F in the design...

I agree try not to use mdf in the bathroom if you can. Woody

simon, I've found that "Driva" fixings can work well in these situations. ight be wortha try, but they will be the last thing you could try there. Woody

Woodulike. Can I ask, what do your guys use to cut the frames with? Do they just do it by hand, or do they use something like the Fein saw? Cheers Woody

You cannot use the standard hinges. Do the hinges not come with the appliance? Woody