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You can also get oil tanks that can be buried.

450mm deep, I use MDPE water pipe for extra protection, warning tape at 300mm. No hidden joins. Are you aware of tank siting regulations.

Stick with the oil, you won't regret it, less trouble and more efficient.

I would agree with Tony, you could possibly cause damage, personally I always convert to mains with a pressure reducing valve inline.

Have you actually increased the pressure on the boiler as advised, by using the filling loop to a minimum of 1 bar.

It would be wise to not only be able know how to drain the system correctly but also to be able to refill and bleed the air from the system afterwards, suggest you read a lot more before attempting this changeover.

Yes, just the one drain off, I usually split the the boiler in sections to remove.

relatively easy, drain cock at base, front of boiler, right side but very low to floor.

The replacement one's have now been improved and internals are now brass.

Very easy install, comes with detachable jig for plumbing, pipework in from the back and below boiler to front, boiler then rolls onto jig,it has wheels, also has a condensate pump built in and a decent length of tubing, fits into a standard appliance space nicely.

But you have to travel to the mechanic, I'm sure Agile would look at your boiler if you took it to him.

No, he does not have to have a RCD protected circuit to be able to have the existing circuit extended or altered, as long as the circuit in question is able to sustain such additions, the main equipotential bonding would have to comply to BS7671 or be upgraded, kitchen bonding is not required...

No, I am saying if its not yet a kitchen, then your statement does not apply, although the electrical works may require notification, depending on their nature.

Its not a kitchen its a garage, unless its already got a sink and an area for preparation of food.

It does'nt make any difference, flow or return for drain. A drain valve sounds like a better choice. Are you really sure you are up to the task you have started.!!!!!!!!!!!

Sorry to have to tell you that you are definitely not ready to be let loose on the public or your friend, never mind ready for an assessment.

Sorry to have to tell you that you are definitely not ready to be let loose on the public or your friend, never mind ready for an assessment.

I have the same problem with my megger, depends on the length of the radial circuit, only way I can see to solve it is to buy the LTW325, guaranteed not to trip.

Of course, do what you like.

Self certification is about notifying building control, as all ready stated electrical works requires a certificate. If you are competent then notify building control before the works and they will inspect upon completion.