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Yeah - thaks Adam. It makes sense. I should bite the bullet and cut an access to the second connection unit anyway. You're sure I can get 2 x 4mm conductors in the terminals of an FCU?

If I can terminate 2 x 4mm on the 'output' side of the first flush connection unit, I can take 4mm to each of the FCUs for the w/machine and dryer. I'd then need to crimp some 2.5mm onto the onward cabling and bring it out into a surface mounted 13A FCU (I think I have to do that anyway). But...

Nope. Impossible to make a ring out of it without major work. It would be possible to extend 4mm up to the second connection unit but not past there. The way I see it, the overload potential can be obviated by ensuring that the two high load appliances come from the 4mm run and protecting the...

Not possible to bring in a new circuit from the CU without vey major upheaval. This is "making the most of a bad job" territory. Well... how long have you got? The 4mm section came from the original CU in meter cupboard to feed what was a 'lean to' utility area. Then we built a major...

I have a somewhat odd radial circuit serving one side of a kitchen - circuit diagram below (sorry if it strains the eyesight). I'd appreciate some expert (constructive) advice on the best way to remove the potential overload. Although, AIUI, the 32A MCB is suitable for the runs of 2 x...

Of course. So can use a standard FCU above instead of an unfused DP switch, which seem to start at 20A. Cheers.

Thanks BAS - and if you read this why in this post do you suggest 15A unswitched sockets (which I think are round pin)? Wouldn't 13A standard unswitched sockets (rectangular pin)be as good and no need to change plug on appliance? What am I missing?

A bit but not fully. The transformer is rated at 0.3A with max. output load 60W. On the primary side that's equivalent to 69W - correct? So if I apply a 20W lamp on the secondary side, does it follow that the transformer is drawing only 0.1A, equivalent to a 23W load at mains voltage? Or is...

I have quite a large number of SELV halogen downlighters in kitchen (50 altogether) and other areas, mostly on individual transformers. I' avoid using dimmers to vary light levels so I use several different switch configurations and lamp wattages to achieve a range of lighting levels - thus: 1...

I wondered if people were thinking "garden shed = workshop/office/study". Perhaps it is, in many cases, but it's not what I had in mind. I use the garage as a workshop and I don't have big power tools - just a few handhelds. My shed - if it ever gets built - is simply space to store the...

I say it as I see it. I did some searching and read quite a number of old threads on similar issues going back as far as 2003. There is a noticeable change of attitude by a number of 'expert' posters. In many of the older threads, for example this one and this one and this one, the responses...

Thanks crafty. That confirms what I worked out myself. The available external socket is already protected by a FCU which I imagine is 13A because it's switching the external socket. I have a couple more questions, if you or anyone else can help. 1. From what I've seen, it's recommended...

I know this thread (not very different to the question I asked) is pre-Part P. Is Part P the reason that the resident experts on here - including ban all sheds - seem to have become so pious?

OK. This is all at the pre-planning stage at this point. I don't even have a shed so I'm not about to do anything at all - let alone anything stupid. All I'm trying to do is get an idea of the scope of a possible future project. Let's break this down. I understand that the best practice...

Hmm. Is there something wrong with the way I asked for advice here?

First - I am aware that the work I am describing below is Part P notifiable. I haven't yet decided how to deal with that - for now, I'm just exploring the issues. I would appreciate advice on the following. I want to provide an electricity supply for a shed I am intending to erect at the...