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Capillary action is the reason and as Burnerman said you need to seal under the glass. The green mould / algae shows that moisture is getting behind the glass too so that would be a good point to start and see how it fares.

If you have any photo's it always help but if you are on good terms with your neighbours then voice your concerns over the bonding gutters as there should be no reason why they cannot slate straight through and the roofers are clearly going to charge them extra for supplying and installing the...

You can specify various grades of tarmac for such situations and I had the carpark done at work which takes a lot of wagons, forklifts and deliveries and hundreds of other daily traffic coming, parking and leaving and we have no issues with damage to the surface. Any good tarmac firm will advise...

I believe this belongs to a Dentist, slightly regretting my career choice right now !!

Here you go.... scroll down for a variety of sizes, styles etc.. https://www.screwfix.com/search?search=wc+fixing

Therein lies the problem as the OP did not consider the parts as waste and whether they are £50 or not it is his/her £50 not theirs especially when it was not agreed and they are clearly making very good money on a job of that size. Personally i would have clarified with the customer what they...

Treat yourself and just change it, unless you have time to waste trying to fix it.... https://www.screwfix.com/p/swirl-bathroom-mixer-tap-hose-polished-stainless-steel-10mm-x-1-5m/622pg

It wouldn't hurt to knock out more bricks along the top course, say one every 750mm -1000mm or so between joist spacings, as the beam is spanning everything and it will not affect it structurally. The centre beam looks like a wider timber so you may have a double course of bricks there so good...

You should be ok with the existing holes in the sleeper walls and check outside for the number and location of any airbricks to gain an idea of the ventilation and any crossflow and you may be able to add more airbricks in locations if you need to.

If you have 5 X 2 joists and should have had 7 X 2 joists then screw and glue 2 x 2 timbers to the 5 x 2's to make them the correct depth. Use the foaming glue and good quality 125mm screws @ 400 centres and you should be all good.

It is very unlikley you will pierce the pipe as those things are tough but you could protect it with more pea gravel to give it a bit more cover and take it easier with the wacker over it.

A run of eaves guards fixed flat under the soffit and set so the short slope faced downwards will give it some cover and shed water out and away from the doors..... https://www.eurocell.co.uk/fascia-and-soffits/ventilators-and-accessories/gep-black-eaves-protector-length-1-5m

This looks like the profile you need but may be better getting some actual dimensions to confirm before ordering or ask them for your profile as they do most types of eaves filler ...

Shouldn't really be an issue but you could use the round pipe lagging if you wish.

The spring loaded version accomodates slopes and allows it to cope with a rise of surface.

Other wheeled versions are available that are more suited to those surfaces... https://www.amazon.co.uk/heavy-duty-gate-wheel/s?k=heavy+duty+gate+wheel

I think you would be better digging deeper holes and a general rule i use is 1/3rd below ground and 2/3rd's above. That would mean using 2.7m posts if you have 1.8m panels but it is only a guide and you could dig down to 600mm and pack with bricks and more postmix or concrete to make it more stable.

You would ideally just continue the slates in line with the neighbours assuming the lats are there and if not it is easy enough to re-lat it through your side keeping the spacings between lats the same.

A simple Jockey wheel will solve it like the type below...

Sprinkle salt or slug pellets and it will keep them at bay but ultimately you need to fill any gaps which is often easier said than done.