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OK - the rule of thumb is - 22mm run from top to bottom and out onto each floor and then branch out in 15mm to each rad on each floor. Try and keep the 15mm runs similar lengths, this will allow the rads to heat up at similar rates. Ideally you would have 22mm on each floor running out to a...

Copper is proper and if you can solder then fire away. If you can't then it could be push fit but still use copper - so yes, tee off the supplies then an elbow up to the shower height, another elbow and copper tails through for the shower.

All depends on how good your tenant is I guess. If they look after things then can go a little more expensive, if they don't then don't.

If it's the standard and correct PRV rated @ 3bar for that boiler and it's still lifting @ 2 bar then chances are it's the gauge that's wrong. Can a new PRV be faulty, yes but I'd be tempted to investigate the gauge too. While you're at it get someone qualified in to service the unvented.

It's not the boiler, it's getting the heat from the boiler out to the system in general and getting the radiators to all heat up quickly, efficiently and as much as possible, all at the same time. 15mm will work, eventually, the system will be slow to heat up and the rads furthest away will...

If you have 21 rads of average size then a 15mm backbone whether copper or plastic is not going to cut it TBH - that will take an age to heat up properly and could be a real PIA to balance properly. It also would be a must to have 22mm primaries if a cylinder is to be fitted. I have no idea what...

Nope - unless they can grind out the whole crack there is nothing really that will stop cracking from getting worse. Very low profile - not surprised it's cracking if it's down to 10mm with nothing underneath it. Says who? I've taken out and replaced loads of tray's and baths and only ever had...

If that happened right after the install then TBH that's when it should have been taken up with the installer. It would be interesting though to know what the installation instruction detailed with regards to the install method, I have seen a manufacturer mention using expanding foam (can't...

+1 - Not what you want to hear but - once they are cracked then really it's time to change, the trouble is the existing cause would still be there so those cracks would invariably return. do the crack fully penetrate and is the tray leaking through? As far as the section removed from the ply...

I don't think the Unistor has an internal baffle, I believe it uses an external EV. Nope, 'fraid not - a vented cylinder needs a header 'tank' as in a F&E. You can't set it up just to heat the water via the coil and then just pump it to the rad without a vent as it's primary safety outlet...

Do you mean re-purpose it as a vented cylinder or even a thermal store (TS)? Guess it could be done, it would need a header tank to keep the store topped up and a location to vent to and then pump the rad water through the coil. Using a 40Kw diesel boiler though is madly oversized just to...

If there's one thing you can be sure of, it's a mid position valve whose motor will eventually burn out. Honestly, as suggested, get it changed over to an S plan, much more straightforward.

What size is the cylinder? If it's a direct unvented cylinder greater than 30L then it really should be serviced by a qualified individual, they aren't really DIY territory.

CWSC - Cold Water Storage Cistern - this is the large cold water container that holds the largest volume of water, usually in the loft, to supply the HW cylinder and sometimes cold water to a bathroom, it is also where the HW cylinder vent can terminate into F&E cistern - Feed and expansion...

Depends ..... You'd need to get in there and see what's gone. If it's just the impeller then you may be able to replace it. That being said I know that salamander did do o-ring seal, mechanical and electric repair kits, not sure they would still do them though.

I'd be asking for a full written report on what he has done, what he found and why it needs replaced at that price. Could be a number of reasons why the CO reading is excessively high and most should be adjustable/repairable and if it isn't then I'd want him to please explain why not.

Well yep, that layout is a bit of a mare - could have been made a lot more intuitive by connecting each of those 22mm's together creating a single looped circuit. If the current runs could be coupled without too much of an issue then that would probably go a long way to evening out the system...

If the HW pressure and flow is fine then it's nothing to do with the unvented. As the unvented is controlled by the combination valve (CV) and if that was at fault then the HW would also be effected. I would probably be looking more towards the kitchen tap and the pipework @ that location...

System design could be an issue - if you have unusually long runs on the backbone and it's split to 2 opposite ends of the property. Central heating should be so designed whereby most of the flow is performed by the larger backbone, ideally in a circuit or to a central location and then the...

I hate it when supposed professionals say that - with an unvented cylinder you only get out what goes in. The ~ 12L/Min tested @ the kitchen, was this with other outlets open at the same time to give a true dynamic reading? If an unvented may have the need to run say 2 showers at the same time...