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If using plastic then +1 for speedfit. Though that can be dictated by what plastic is already there.

There should really be a valve on both ends of a filling loop to allow it to be fully isolated. You get 2 kinds of double check valves, verifiable and non verifiable - one would usually have a screw that can be removed to see if the valve is passing, the other doesn't, I've never seen a check...

If the system is 10mm microbore then keep it the same, reduces the balancing overhead. You can really only run 1 medium sized rad off of 10mm pipe, so you really need to take a separate feed from the 22mm for each rad.

OK - TBH a 3 bar PRV wouldn't normally be used as part of a loop for a sealed system. Anytime a PRV would be used as part of a boiler setup would be say to protect a combi and ensure the cold mains inlet didn't exceed 3 bar. A (R24) filling loop needs an isolating double check valve on the cold...

1st off, that's the wrong gauge, that only goes up to 1 bar on a 3 bar PRV. That could be a verifiable check valve and the plastic cap is the verifiable section. It could also be an outlet for a gauge for a gauge. Hard to say, take it off and see what's underneath? That PRV has been made up...

Something like this? So there's no access under the bath once is set down, so the waste has to be connected to the bath then it's set down onto the floor, hence wanting to use a flexi connection onto the bath waste ? Is there any room for a trap under the bath as that's usually an issue with...

Is it a free standing bath that has a skirt all the way to the floor?

As far as the regs are concerned, a waste pipe discharging into a gully should discharge below the grate level but above the seal but can only be used for grey water if the gulley is connected to a combined drain/sewer Hence why most plastic gulley grates have waste/down pipe cutouts

The key is if it is solvent Weld (ABS/PVC). If it is then I have got away with a piece of 40mm cut lengthways before. That then has a sliver cut out of it lengthways so it will shrink enough to use as an internal liner, glue down the cut and then glue a new piece of 40mm over the top. All cuts...

None at all, that I can see.

I would also suggest all the pipework has a high quality, high rated insulation fitted too, if it hasn't already.

https://www.diy.com/departments/mdpe-fittings-to-copper-pipe-connectors-20mm-straight-22mm-copper-/5060449709440_BQ.prd Basically a 20mm MDPE to 3/4" female with a 3/4" male to 22mm compression

The mini receiver is wired the same way. Power is connected from L and N (Brown and Blue), switching is performed by Grey and Black for a combi. The Mini itself is wireless and battery powered.

Yes your local friendly GSR engineer should be able to remove it and do it with the right chemicals

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Is it a sealed system or is it open vent and supplied from a cistern in the loft?

Unfortunately the mains booster pumps are all pretty similar and cheapest is around £250 and as suggested, mains cannot be pumped more than 12L/Min.

TBH a boiler can sometimes be only as good as the installer. Most modern boilers will run happily, without issues, if they are installed properly, looked after regularly and are connected to a system that is in good condition, maintained properly, setup properly and run correctly. Trouble is...

Nope

Absolutely, warm it up, or bend it opposite to itself and it will straighten up, should be more then enough to get the insulation around it