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What have we told you about this, Nige? It'll drop off if you play around with it too much!

This is a bugbear of mine when rads are under the window and you have to hang curtains - too long and you can't close them because you block out the heat, too short and they look wrong when closed/pulled back. The shelf is a good option to force the heat out into the room, allowing you to have...

I'm under the impression that the OP doesn't want to pull the plates off and is just looking to fill the 'gaps' as the are. If so, the only real way is to use decorator's caulk. All of us here know that it's not the correct method, and is setting yourself up for issues if the plates need to be...

If the gap is wide enough, you could wedge some 6mm foam backer rod in there, followed by a flexible filler/decorator's caulk. That said, stair strings are notorious for movement and cracking,and may still open up, so a small quadrant bead to cover the whole area might be a better option.

Certainly looks like a typical 'hollow' brick/block. If so, it will have a variant of a honeycomb pattern, which may well still have some scope for chiseling out and still offer some fixing spots. Try googling 'honeycomb bricks' to see what I mean, and you might find something similar to what...

Nice idea. Any chance of posting a pic with the rad back on?

A surface consisting of various materials will never get an even look so use lining paper (1200 grade or thicker if necessary) to give a more even surface - it's cheap and worth it. However, if the walls are excessively bumpy/uneven, you will still get blemishes appearing through it so take time...

What material is being painted?

Nowt sad about that...we all try to achieve the best results possible. I remember finishing my apprenticeship 25 years ago and feeling pleased with the results I was getting but 10 years later I was laughing about those results. Another 10 years later, I was looking back and laughing again...

Untitled by misterhelpful posted 24 Jul 2014 at 7:52 AM

If the areas are relatively large, it could be over-polishing of the plaster, i.e., the surface is too smooth/shiny to accept the paint properly. If you allow the first mist coat time to dry thorughly, without trying to continuously get it to cover, it will often be fine when you use your two...

GRRRR!!! :mad::mad::mad:

Definitely not woodchip and looks like poorly stippled Artex. As mentioned, those cracks/bumps make it look as though the actual ceiling substrate is in poor condition. The weight of the plaster on top could cause it to loosen more and fall down. Although not for the correct reason, the...

Combined paint & primers are popular over here and generally tend to adhere to anything but, with it being the UK version of Valspar that you are using (it's really not the same as it's US version), I would recommend a light sanding with 180 grit just to give a key and remember to dust off.

I prefer a paint brush, but hey ho. Sarcasm aside, I know you are just trying to put 'your way is the right way' spin on the subject, but I can't deny the fact that the rads I have done with emulsion, and others I have seen, have all been fine. The only time I have seen paint that has...

You can when they are correctly applied. Why do us decorators sand vinyl silk before applying vinyl matt when a change of finish is required? :confused:

Actually, I painted many residential and commercial properties annually, so I did get to see the longevity. I always told clients that asked that I could do it but wouldn't guarantee the outcome. If it was left to me, I would use gloss, satinwood, or radiator enamel on previously unpainted rads...

Yep, Ive painted probably 100+ rads with emulsion (silk and matt) down the years and there's never been an issue. I imagine cheap nasty emulsions will crack/blister but if the paint is good quality, and the existing coating is sound, it should be fine. Always sand to provide a key first, though...

Never was a truer word written. The worn down brush is better than anything for cutting in along glass.

Yes, don't get me wrong, Zinsser doesn't have the covering power and opacity of a traditional oil based undercoat, but it does give you the benefit of not needing to sand back so hard in order to guarantee adhesion when over-coating an existing oil based paint with water based. This can save a...