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Glidden has been re-branded as Armstead and should still be available at DDC's - it is a Dulux brand. Gloss is best on woodwork, but sand the existing paint before applying new. Stripping doors can be a nightmare task (read time consuming and laborious) and many pro decorators will avoid...

If they still do it, the 10L tubs of Crown matt in Q&B were pretty good for the price. It's certainly not the hardest wearing paint, and is virtually a contract matt, but if it's 'cheap' that you are after, I would go with it. It goes on easily, covers pretty well, and dries nice and evenly...

Wow....just checked the rate on that chart vs the US dollar....as I was in the process of moving over here summer 2014, it was around £1:$1.70. Now it's as low as £1:$1.24....sad but it seems I was fortunate to pick the right time to move...at least in terms of finance. :(

Protagonism

Encounter

I don't see any real need to prime the reverse side, although, in theory, all sides of any timber product should receive the same treatment. This helps avoid warping due to different moisture levels being absorbed/exuded on opposite sides but I don't see that as a major problem in this...

The paint used sounds like it is a contract matt emulsion. It is ideal for use on new plaster (is that what it was used on?) as it can be applied whilst the plaster is still drying out, it is also cheaper than vinyl emulsions but the downsides are that it does have a slightly chalky/powdery...

As long as the existing paint is sound, there shouldn't be any need for a Zinsser product. I would also recommend an acrylic eggshell for kitchen ceilings, rather than matt, but that is up to you. If you want to go for a Zinsser product, then Perma-White Interior Matt would do the job of...

You can do all of the painting before, and then protect the cabinets, but that is risky. The tiles shouldn't be much of a problem when it comes to causing damage, but sharp bits can still fly around and make a few marks. If doing it this way, I would use something more heavy duty than plastic...

Inmate

De-nibbing is always best for a professional finish. It does somewhat help coats adhere, but fresh paint adheres to itself relatively well anyway. Obnce a coat has fully cured (several days for water based, several weeks for oils) then sanding to improve adhesion may be required. I use around...

Hey...hey....slow down there...not once did I ever spec an extra can of white paint on a job and take it home for my own personal use....not ever...never...no Siree...not me, Guv. Prove it! Wait. Are you a hack? :eek::cautious:

Chain

I'd recommend Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Plus as a high grip primer followed by a suitable topcoat of your choice. Personally, I've always used oil based eggshell for fireplaces but, if going white, you need to research whether any oil based topcoat you choose will yellow. Many manufacturers have...

King (B.B.)

Major error with the PVA: Untitled by misterhelpful posted 24 Jul 2014 at 7:52 AM http://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/mist-coat-or-pva-bare-surface-basics.425261/ You could have saved yourself a lot of work, and any potential issues, by using Zinsser Gardz to seal in the old paste residue. The...

Bloody hell....if my wife had me use her favourite perfume, even a few drops would cost me a fortune! Some of my Hai Karate will have to do! :ROFLMAO:

Theoretically, there's no need to sand, but being 'old school', I always gave it a very light sand, if only to de-nib any imperfections.

One of the first jobs I undertook working for myself ('several' moons ago) was re-painting the local chip shop/cafe in the nights/weekend when they were closed. (The owners were too tight-fisted to close for redecoration!) The whole ceiling was wood panelling, as were all of the shelves. I used...

You might be lucky enough to get away with it but, for guaranteed longevity, sanding is highly recommended. ;)