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:LOL:

Yes put 12mm ply down. Lino is very tricky to fit. One wrong cut and it’s ruined. Your vinyl tiles solution is certainly easier to fit than lino. it also may not be beyond you to tile it again. Just watch a few YouTube vids to glean some tips and insights.

That makes a lot of sense. He is right.

Use high quality solvent based paint and you might find every 3+ years or so is enough to keep in top of it. Don’t waste your money on cheap housewives stain from b and q - something with osmo or jotun on the side is what is needed.

Removing glass won’t help or give more access. I know that much. Just more jiggery pokery req and you might have to slightly damage window to get it open but you can repair and repaint afterwards.

Sand the gloss really well to create a good key for the new paint to stick to - then a coat of primer then top coat. (Two top coats if you want to be really pro) don’t skimp on the sanding tho otherwise your new paint layer will chip off so easily with even the lightest scuff

Will make no difference whatsoever. I love a nice chimney tho. I would not let my neighbour remove my chimney! - but each to their own.

Entirely up to your own comfort as homeowner. As you say it’s not within anyones regulatory domain. personally I like to see outbuildings and garden rooms finished externally in an ‘in keeping’ way to the main house or in materials that are common use in the area. For example where I live...

Yes 100%. As long as you have his details for his account and you pay with cash or card there and then. Howdens have a very well structured branch sales incentive scheme/bonus system. Every penny of revenue for that branch is one step closer to their monthly target so they will be delighted...

Yes perfect- I like to use a product called hardwall on bare brick. Bonding coat prob good too for lower suction surfaces. Both work.

I would say sharp sand for up to 50mm depth only. Everything else made up in type 1

It’s definitely had the mortar redone before. Many reasons for this from missing expansion gaps to insufficient foundations. Most things like this ultimately boil down to shoddy cowboy workmanship. I would be looking carefully to see the wider extent of botched workmanship in other areas of...

I would give up on trying to remove the roots/stumps. Any liquid to rot them will take months anyway and if not careful the liquid can poison the new plants too. I would be inclined to simply cut the stumps below the soil level with a saw so they are not visible are then decide exactly your...

That’s plenty flat enough. No need for extra expense.

Expanding foam is very much the wrong product for this job. Cutting out the sections of rotten wood and glueing in a new section/patch is the best way short of replacing the cill. Wood filler is the second best option here but remove all the old wood and sand down and treat with rot hardener...

Make sure the attic lights are blown that day and the loft ladder was ‘lent to a friend the other day’

Yeh this really needs a slot drainage channel right around and over the door threshold too. This patio is the same height as your floor level so will be higher than the damp proof course(if your house even has one) which would not even meet code these days and yes over time as each winter...

Not sure if this is a proper loft conversion to code or just an attic room but in any case you don’t need to touch that party wall at all - it’s fireproof as it is. Just insulate between the studs as per req insulation specs and then screw normal or insulated plasterboard as per specs straight...

There is no official fridge feet - just a small square of 12mm mdf under each foot or something. Only way to find out about adjustment options is trial and error.

No planning req.