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There was a leak previously but it's now dry. I scraped away old paint but it kept flaking and crumbling to dust. I then coated it with gloss paint to try to seal it. It lasted a bit longer but it's still coming down. Would damp seal paint work better? I know for wall plaster affected by rising...

Any ideas how to have this meter boxed in better without getting it moved? In the very corner is a stack pipe. Vertical pipes from meter: upwards is a bonding, downwards is gas to the property Perhaps box in diagonally so I can recover head height? Issues: The boxing is deeper than it needs...

Risk could be similar to a fire rated cable being compromised by fire and cutting the alarm

messaged!

In a 3 storey house I need to fit a grade A LD2 alarm system. Mains connected grade D currently exists in the correct locations so those detectors can be switched easily; it's wireless so minimal wiring. Any advice for how to get this sorted as low cost as possible? Happy to receive quotes (NW...

Is there a reason why there were gaps left between where the gutter pipe and the wall are (I have messily filled 3 of them)? Is it to ventilate the wall inside or because someone was lazy to the remove the pipe? Building is over 80 years old.

Thanks. Have already tried reducing moisture within the house including running extractors for the maximum overrun time. Will look again at increasing ventilation in the loft.

Some of the wool insulation under the felt has split open so perhaps moisture more easily hits the cold felt; if I seal them back up might that help by keeping most of the roof area warmer internally and therefore less condensation?

I have added a photo on a post above. I have added the insulation you now see there, but it has not been stuffed into any eaves (wish I could find eaves but I don't think they exist in my roof? With regards to keep moisture out I feel that is a losing battle because a lot of moisture will find...

80+% humidity; when very cold it condensates on underside/felt of roof and drips down all over the loft...

5 degrees!

Please see photos below. There's an integrated gutter. The overlapping part on the exterior is closed with panels. Where could the eaves be on this style of roof (70s house).

Can someone please clarify what Xpelair has told me: 1. I sent the first photo asking what connection creates the maximum speed. 2. Xpelair sent the second photo and comment. 3. Third photo is the diagram for the model I have from the manual. 1 2 3

So basically it's the user's fault? Trying to decide if I should get a forensic expert involved if the tenant refuses to pay for the damage.

Thanks. To give the tenant the benefit of the doubt/explore other possibilities, if it was to be an electrical/wear and tear fault do you know what could cause a flame/fire to be created?

My tenant's toaster started a fire (contained to the area it was situated). How common are genuine faults in these appliances that can lead to them creating a fire? The tenant did tell me that she first put the toaster on its side to put the toast in (can anyone explain why one would do...

Should I do this before changing the spur?

prob not worth buying a multi meter just for that one test

I don't think my style of pitched room created vents through eaves! There is lots of insulation but it is not near the gap where eaves would be. I can try sealing off the 4 downlights in bathroom perhaps but the overall moisture from the whole will still reach the loft eventually....

Thanks. When doing the wiring and connection checks I thoroughly checked as far as was possible all cables. I have since bought a voltage detector screwdriver so the most I can test is for live. While I changed the double socket, I did not change the fused spur and your theory that I should not...