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Shut isolation valve under boiler????

Yes, it sets rock hard and will make a permament fix. Used to be used on old cast iron central heating connections where the pipes were socket and spigot. I connected onto the said pipes and used same arrangment and as long as set it will take pressure. Your waste won't have any pressure in...

Take out plastic, clean and dry cast socket and plastic. Refit plastic and pack in something to take up the space (rope, poly bag, caulk preferably) and centre the pipe, while leaving enough room to seal with pure cement. Pack in the cement and smooth off, leave to dry job done. Check cast is...

Usually clickers come with a chrome dome plug for the overflow chain fixing hole in the box.

LST rad, designed that way. (low surface temperature) valve pin may be jammed if rad not heating or air in rad.

O/H stat cutting off the power. Probably caused by insufficient flow also I take you are saying 49-50'C temp which is way too hot for a shower. Max recommended is 41'C if it is a blended shower an electric would be about the same. The instructions might say what temp the thermal trip cuts the...

You don't need the backnut, If the fitting in the wall is a back plate female elbow you should only need to screw it in with seal tape on threads.

You can check with a volt stick to see if it lights up without having to go into the wiring. If not it is a multimeter to check to see if power going into the boiler or out of the timer to valves at the wires. If still no luck engineer time. ps is the lockout light on the control box on the...

Only thing is to check to see if power is getting to the boiler. If no power at boiler it must be before that on the contolling programmer/ motorised valves.

Generally it doesn't leak apart from maybe some rad valves weeping. But there was a post earlier regarding Servowarm rads that balloon out as they were only suitable for low pressure. as long as system is in copper and in reasonable condition it shouldn't be a problem. I had a 70+ year old...

Sorry my mistake regarding the Drayton. No heads are not interchangable so the body would have to be changed too. Honeywell is about the best there is as I had one that lasted 24 years untouched.

Look for an overheat trip switch. It may on the underside of the top control panel above the burner. Or a little black cap near the stat which you unscrew and puch the button.

The pressure is detemined by the head of water eg water level in tank down to boiler. 1 bar is 33 ft head so if a bungalow it would be around .2 of a bar and a three story house up to 1 bar.

That is Danfoss for you using micro micro switches. Common problem I would change to a different valve Like Honeywell or Drayton/ Iflo as they use proper sized micro switches.

Black ring on the base of the valve turns to un-clip it. The pin underneath is probably jammed and needs a tap with a hammer. Or the head needs renewed and can be picked up at a wholesaler or just fit a coplete new valve. The valve head just pushes back on as the clip is sprung loaded.

You could fit a mixer as long as it had back flow prevention measures. But I would go for new Globe Taps.

It'll be in BTU's not Kw's

If the photo cell is faulty the burner fan will run and run and run but will not fire. The coil on the solinoid could do this as it heats up(breaking down) then drops out shutting the oil causing the flame to go out and then lockout.

I think the pic is upside down.

Expansion vessel needs pumped up. check out the Stickies at the top of the page.