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I guess it is a reference to the dreaded Part P,rather than anything else (the "thou shalt not work on your own electrics - get an electrician in" clause :shock: )

Close-ups are sooo much better with a better camera (more pixels) Less difference with scenery/landscape type pictures (I paint 28mm scale models,and 2mp camera doesn't compare with 5mp for macro shots)

However,most engine wear occurs during start up and warming up,so constant warm running causes much less wear anyway - the reason industrial diesel engines go on forever,and wagons happily do 120,000 km a year. :)

Yes,once you've actually bought one,you will probably never use a screwdriver again,either (and wish you'd got one years ago..)

When building a workshop recently,went to local Jewsons,who have a brick library - take one down and get it matched,well worth it (my bricks were 73 mm instead of the standard 65,so not only did the bricks match,so did the courses)

Also,if you ever go into b&q,they do a leaflet "building a carport" which explains the timber frame/plastic sheet type of construction (including if building regs apply)

You can drill them with an ordinary masonary drill - use it with hammer action OFF,and slowly until through the glaze on the tile.(Can also use special tile drill bits if you have them) 1/2"/13mm might be too much in one go - try 6/8 mm first,then in with the big one

Let it dry (won't take long..) and it can be scraped off worktops by using stanley knife blade - just keep the blade almost flat to the worktop,so it doesn't dig in.

Quick rule-of-thumb guide I read :- For joist thickness - divide span in feet by 2,then add 2 i.e. 3 m = 10 ft 10 / 2 = 5 5 + 2 = 7,so use 7" x 2" joists However,as you are raising an existing roof,I assume it has joists now,so what size are they ? And the same goes for the...

Are you sure it's pressure and not vacuum ? i.e. when you remove petrol cap is air rushing out or in? (could be blocked breather pipe from tank - is petrol leak regular,or only when you release cap?)

I'd start with a squirt of WD40 - the pedals are normally on a shaft with a nylon bush between the two. It's just a bit awkward to see where you are spraying it,and it doesn't need a lot.

Do you have one of those handy gadgets for locating wires/metal in walls ? I'm sure you should be able to find screws hidden in wood with one (unless they are brass screws,perhaps)

I've always known it as "threaded rod" (who isn't as pimply as his cousin,screwed rod :D :D )

All my boxes of bits have pictures with each bit to show you what shape you get when you use them. Look at them in profile,and that is the shape they will make - ones with a guide bearing on the bottom will follow the edge of the wood by themselves (assuming you are going in the right direction...

Hi 1)Sure you could build one,but would need to be made of material that will not warp or wear - probably more cost-effective to buy one (the kits with jigs and clamps are fairly reasonable) 2)Try to get hold of a good book - I bought the Collins "good wood" series book on routers - good...

Yes,please do - I for one would like to know what answer you get.

Just buy the oil that say "for diesel engined vehicles" As said - you need to get oil designed for diesel engines - they have more additives in,as diesel combusts in a different way to petrol.Diesel engine oil generally has more detergents in,so should not be used in petrol engines,at it...

Years ago,the apprentices at the Massey-Ferguson factory took a standard MF575 tractor and converted it for tractor pulling. Standard spec - 66 bhp Converted one - 500 bhp !! (using same engine)

Check this or this for some idea - but if in doubt,check with your local BCO[/url]

Yes,it is illegal to leave a vehicle unattended with the engine running and the handbrake on. It can only be left in the care of a responsible person (somebody who can drive - not your three-year-old !) but they can be in the passenger seat.