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Thanks for the comprehensive and informative replies. Brick wall is about as sheltered as imaginable (it's about 3" from the corresponding wall to my neighbour's garage along its whole length). Garage is to be used as a gym. I'm planning on using an electric heater in the extremes of winter...

Got it thanks. Completely new question, same subject. I've noticed that a few of my neighbours have a second skin of blockwork inside the outer brick wall (i.e. not the main house wall). Probably sounds dumb, but that lead me to wonder if I should have one too. The only benefit I can...

Thanks Woody. If the joists sit on top of the bearer plate what prevents them from moving? Should they be screwed down to it somehow?

I'm looking to get some quotes to have some work done on my nearly falling down garage. It's adjacent to the house and so shares a wall with the house. I like to feel a little bit informed going into these conversations so have a couple of Qs: 1) How should they be securing the roof joists to...

I've come up with a couple more solutions: Option 3 - disconnect condensate hose from the pipe that goes out through the wall and temporarily run it into a bit of hose leading to the sink Option 4 - heat the condensate pipe inside the house so it's super-heated as it trickles down into the...

I'm thinking of trying to heat my external condensate pipe that drains into a soakaway to avoid it freezing and tripping out the boiler (as had happened when I got home from work this evening). Option 1 - set up an electric fan heater to point at it Option 2 - set a barbecue on the paving...

I just got home to find the same problem on my Flexicom 18Hx. Hairdryer and boiling water on the vertical external length of condensate pipe got it up and running again. I can't believe that I read this thread at work and got home to find the same problem. After the initial F4 mine showed F1...

I'm looking to use my garage as a gym. If I seal off any drafts and insulate will it actually make the garage warmer than the outside, or do you need a heat source in the space for insulation to be worthwhile?

Do I need a jointing compound suitable for potable water supplies if it's being used on the hot feed to a mixer tap which has a potable cold supply?

Yes I do have clear slime in my F&E tank. I assumed it was X100 that had failed to be drawn down into the system (I've never seen a bottle of X100 in my life by the way). The F&E tank is only half covered because the cover is damaged - would this increase the risk of a bacteria? I have that...

So far the installer has failed to return my calls. I'll persevere, however it strikes me that for the sake of £30 for a bottle each of X400 and X100 I might as well save the bother of bringing back people who don't know what they're doing (or knowingly choose to take shortcuts). It sounds as if...

Just re-read the installation checklist - he actually used X400. The sentinel datasheet says that this cleaner has a neutral ph.

So a properly powerflushed system wouldn't exhibit this problem (so soon afterwards), regardless of whether or not inhibitor was added? I want to understand if this points to them having not actually done a proper powerflush, or if they just failed to get the inhibitor into the system.

I will, but before I do so I'd really like to know what work they should be doing to rectify their previous mistakes. I'd also quite like to know what they failed to do properly the first time and whether their errors may have compromised the life-expectancy of my new boiler.

I had a new boiler installed in April. They apparently powerflushed the system using X800 and refilled with X100 inhibitor. Ever since then I've found gas accumulating in 2 of the radiators in particular. These 2 radiators also tended to be very noisy, producing a crackling / dripping sound...

Mine is the same. I'll assume it's solid.

Great input, thanks everyone. It hadn't occured to me that the absence of a window ledge upstairs gave away the wall thickness. If I understand correctly you insulated the floor space between ground and first floors in the "crescent" of the bay? Why did you do that?

thanks, I'll lift a couple of tiles and have a look.

So all that's between me and the elements is tiles, timber and plaster!? :o Is there a modern approach for insulating this section of "wall"? I was already thinking of putting a foil coated insulator behind the radiator that sits in the bay on the first floor - based on what you say it...

I have a 3 bed semi build in 1939. It has a curved bay window the full height of the house at the front, with exposed brickwork below the window at ground floor level and tiles below the window on the first floor. I was wondering if houses in this style - which you see all over the place -...