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I would currently go for this one, as cheaper than teh one you showed, same batteries, metal drill bit and much shorter so fits better between joists, in cupboards, etc https://www.toolstation.com/dewalt-dcd709d2t-gb-18v-xr-brushless-compact-combi-drill/p60545

Not an electrician, but a diyer. I 'believe' that these are, but has been a while since I last used them. The link goes to several versions as you choose length and led colour. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/tcl/search?query=led+batton Is there a TLC near you? (TLC normally sell to electricians...

Dubai lamps : extra LEDs that are run at lower power so they last longer:

Can use plaster board adhesive. Or nothing as the stud wood is pushing the PIR against the wall.

To minismise thermal bridging, I would put 100mm PIR on the walls, and then studs to hang the plasterboard, I would put a base plate and top plate on the floor and ceiling and put studs between these. See here for an image: https://www.carpentry-tips-and-tricks.com/Interior-wall-framing.html...

Looking at my tall wood fence posts - whose wood has shrunk in their concrete foundations making them move a little, and being worried about rot at the foundation/air point - would you better using some steel 'I beams' as the uprights? eg, randomly found using google to show price examples...

Put the old washer on the new sensor and see if it fits without leakage?

With regards to insulating a 'house', this might be useful background reading (I have done similar): SFK https://jack-kelly.com/insulating_our_victorian_living_room This shows battons / stud filled with insulation which is what I did. But You can also put single layer of 100mm insulation...

Diyer here who has done this to outside building... Why have insulated plasterboard when you have 100mm insulation ? And why have vapor sheet (for the floor?) when you have foil on insulation that is taped up. ? And don't forget to insulate ceiling. Need to include cost of plasterer to skim...

If LED tube is wired like this one...

Roller tray.

I use (as diyer) plastic sieve from Poundland.

My suggestion would would be to get your metal man to make a metal plate to drop down off front of that top concreate slab by about 1 brick height. That will form a collection area under the slab that directs more smoke and heat up chimney. Sfk

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"it's own circuit" means it should have its own dedicated fuse (MCB or RCBO) of correct size at Fuse box (consumer unit) and it's own dedicated cable of correct size from that Fuse in Fuse box to the shower. Suggest you get your sparky friend to fit it as it also needs paperwork.

The more level the MOT, the easier it will be to get the mortar bed right. And now you have asked, you should do it now otherwise you will kick yourself later.

To see if the second (difficult to reach) fan is or is not working, I would switch off the power at the consumer unit (Fuse box) and temporarily remove the live connection from the accessable fan by pulling the wire out from its connection block at the fan. Then put the power back on and listen...

This cut always confuses me (or rather I occasionally make wrong cuts and then kick myself). Hence I always try and put a drawn 45deg line on the wood, and a tick on the good (keep) side and a cross on the waste (not to be used) side of the line. Sometimes I do this on both sides of the wood so...

Works for me...... But for me the typical wind direction works to my advantage pushing door open onto magnet. :)

This, with one side screwed to wall, the magnet catch glued (araldite) to door. https://www.toolstation.com/magnetic-door-holder/p97457?