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Ok EV is pumped to 0.8 bar. Valve cap put back on. Drain valve closed and hose disconnected. System filled to 1 bar, all upstairs rads reopened, temporary EV rad filled and bled.

Cant do that unless I stand there with a tissue and a screwdriver holding the valve down - I don't have an open ended screw on/clip on schrader hose. Anyway, Ive rechecked it, it seems nothing is coming out any more. Will start refilling.

Ok system is now at 2 bar and I will wait 10 minutes.

Terry Im appreciating the help but Im trying to follow instructions from both yourself and John here. John says I should empty the vessel again which Ive now done. @Johntheo5 Ive pressed the EV valve down and emptied all the air again. The air pressure came out first, no water came out but the...

Assuming it was just condensation in there, and the air completely vanished over time, then how can I get all that condensation out? Any water in the dry side of the vessel will be reducing its effective capacity? The shrader valve is at the top of the vessel, so when the pressure is gone it...

I think I get you but not 100%. If I press the shrader valve now, I would expect some air to come out first (the air Ive just put in, which will be at the top of the vessel). Then the water that was in there before, if it hasn't drained away, might also come out. If that water keeps coming...

Sorry John, please clarify what you're saying I should do? You want me to test for air pressure on the shrader valve again and fully deflate the vessel? I'd have to then re-do all the draining and pumping up procedure? Also - should I now reinstate the temporary EV rad as a rad, or keep it as...

Closed all upstairs rads to not lose too much system water. I am a keen cyclist and have a range of pumps, none of which would seal very well against the EV schrader valve. I resorted to a mountain bike shock pump which has a screw on fitting, but is very low volume so it took ages. Pumped it...

Well yeah, I think this will only prove that the vessel is gone, which we're 99% sure of already.

The one fitted to the combi is the flat pan type 6 litre one, pre-charged to 0.75 bar as standard. Worcester Bosch part number 87161055450. I am about to try to pump it up, will try for 0.75 bar to match the factory setting. Will report back shortly.

8 reasonably sized radiators, most doubles a couple are singles, 1 towel rad in bathroom.

Ok I'll see if I can give it a go soon. Let me just clarify what I'm looking for then when I try this... If I can't pump up the vessel at all then the air I'm putting in is simply dissipating through the rubber membrane - vessel is shot. If I pump it up but it won't hold pressure for very long...

Terry i appreciate the help you've given but the EV is full of water. The Schrader valve is at the very top of the EV, and when I pressed the valve it shot a continuous stream of water out. If there was air in it, it would have risen to the top and hissed out first. It's not that I don't want...

If the membrane isn't perforated, how is the EV full of water? The pressure hasn't been rising since Ive been monitoring it. Filling loop is not present normally, its a key insert system to bridge the filling port. Yeah it was actually a service - according to the paperwork anyway. But...

Is there any point me trying this Terry? Its clear the EV is full of water so the rubber membrane must have failed. If I pressurise it, its a temp fix if it holds but its likely to lose pressure and fill up with water again isn't it?

On my boiler the drain is inside the cover, and Im not supposed to remove the cover because it has seals as part of the combustion safety system. On the outside of the boiler on the heating pipework, there is a drain valve, but this would drain down the whole system. Boiler has been on for...

My understanding is that to properly try and recharge the EV I need to drain down the boiler, which I can't do without removing the boiler cover which I can't do because I'm not qualified. Done this, turned heating on now will see what pressure gauge reads shortly.

I don't think the cold water inlet/heat exchanger is compromised - the system pressure is not climbing over time. Is that what you are checking for?

@oph pretty despicable from a manufacturing point of view if true. Can I please ask you to clarify the 2nd part of your post? You want me to isolate mains cold feed (so we won't have any hot water from the taps or shower) and then try to drain the expansion vessel (via the shraeder valve?)? Im...

I didn't want to flood the kitchen, but it is a continuous stream yes. Its not just spluttering, there is no air at all in it. I could try and pump air into it but the system isn't drained and Im not allowed to isolate the boiler and remove the cover to drain the boiler. The pressure gauge is...