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And here is a photo of my neighbour's wall for reference. Same type of brick obviously, but alot neater looking and I like the colour match. If I could achieve this look I think that would be nice?

Here's some photos of my other walls that I haven't touched yet. The front of the house is a textured brick, not smooth like the side and back. You can see from one close up that the a thin layer has just been put over the original mortar here. The original mortar is very fragile, can scrape...

I think what it is is that the tool looks like a v shape because it's only the 1/2 size. The bit that's curved, is a quarter circle, but it's sitting within a larger piece of metal which makes it look like a tighter radius. If the joint was narrower, the tool would be sitting on much more of the...

I did leave it some time before tooling it. It wasnt wet at all definitely not sloppy and I didn't get any sticking to the brick etc. My mix wasn't too wet either. It was dry enough that the edges would crumble off. I did tool it hard though, trying to get the compression into the surface so...

Here's a section done not by me but previously. It's more buff coloured and flush with the brick. The issue is that the layer of pointing there is only a couple mm deep as they didn't take out the joint properly to do it. In such a wide joint is this better than trying to make a concave profile?

I just think it looks crap. Like Ivor says it's deep in places and the greyness of it makes it stand out more compared to if it's more sandy coloured or more similar to the brick in colour. So I'm thinking when I do the rest of the house I do it completely flush with the surface of the brick...

Yeah it is very sharp. I got it from wickes. The Marshaltown ones in screwfix don't look a lot different from the picture, but they do do some larger sizes. Do you think I should redo the whole lot? Or I could not do a concave profile at all and do it completely flush?

Is this wall better?

The jointer is 1/2 and 5/8 other end. Here are some photos of the widest end of the jointer against the brick.

This is another section I did where the joints are a bit narrower, it's not so deeply recessed here.

Thanks. I used the widest jointer I could get, think it was 3/4 inch one end and 1/2 inch the other end. The joints are so uneven widths (all different) and wide that it was really hard to get it to look half decent. The corners just kept falling out as the bricks themselves are often chipped...

Last year I repointed some brickwork sections that were badly deteriorated. The brick joints are wide and uneven. I used a curved tool to create a concave finish. I used standard building sand and cement in a 5:1 ratio with a little plasticiser, which has come out rather grey. I attach a...

Thanks, yes I'd considered this too. Is this allowed? A poster on the building section thought this might not be weatherproof. Is it allowed to use timber for the frame?

Hi all, I asked about this in the building forum as it is more wide ranging than just the gas service, but was advised to ask here too. My gas meter (and electric meter) is currently inside the house inside a kitchen cupboard. I am thinking of getting it moved externally, literally to the...

Possible. I guess I'd have to go examine one to determine. Do you think there is any compliance standards reason why I couldn't recess a box designed for surface mount? I could pop over and ask on the electrical section if that is better? From a physical perspective, I can't see why not. The...

I get the idea, thanks. I wonder if it would look a bit weird, to have protruding bricks rather than a simple white frame. It would also be more complex than cutting a neat square hole in the wall. Would it be a better idea to recess a surface mounted cabinet? This way, the whole cabinet is...

Hmm Im not sure it would be difficult to seal. If I made the frame out of timber (if that was allowed), that could be screwed to the wall bedded on exterior sealant. Then the flush box could also be bedded on sealant as well. Then the whole show could be sealed with a bead all the way around...

You cant seem to buy shallow cabinets, unless you have a better link? The one posted above is a) not in stock, b) unclear dimensionally, c) for electric only (I'd need one certified for gas as well). Google isn't revealing anything else. On your second point, how would the rain get in? The...

At the moment Im trying to formulate a plan. Yes I would absolutely need to discuss with the utilities. Ive already emailed Octopus (my supplier), they said they can't do an internal to external move and its a DNO job. I have replied asking how I start the process with the DNO. Regarding...

It was suggested to me on another forum that getting the actual gas/electric supply moved would only be a couple hundred quid per service. The brickwork element/fitting the new external cabinet I would be looking to do myself. If I can't then yes the cost of getting a trade in to do this for me...