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Are you talking about an opening in an existing house wall which is going to be too big for a conservatory which is going to replace an existing wooden structure? Sketch may help.

One of the key characteristics of cavity bats is they supposedly don’t wick moisture. But they don’t tend to get used below dpc much, tend to just start them sat on the cavity ties at dpc level. Then perimeter PIR to reduce thermal bridging.

I’ve got that too and it’s great. But it isn’t going to do this one easily.

I’m imagining trying to do this even with the heaviest (back breaking) kango I’ve used, and I think I’d be a complete nightmare/impossible. And back breaking due to the fact it’s underground and surrounded presumably by earth. Does it have to go, given it’s buried underground? Are you wanting...

The hire place will recommend one if you tell them what it’s for. But that sounds a big job for any hand held one. Mine have what they call a “road drill”, proper low frequency percussion heavy upright thing. Your job is deffo beyond the scope of any of the smaller SDS max type kangos I’d say

that looks like cement/backer boards, which would normally be tile adhesive’d and screwed down onto ply/timber/chipboard. If so, the screws don’t indicate joist positions as they only go into the subfloor not the joists.

Sounds fine

I reckon deep window reveals look good! Like an old stone walled cottage. But yeah as above, sounds potentially not necessary in the first place

Yeah, plug a load of mortar in. Those first courses are often a lot of adjustment from a concrete foundation that’s not bang on level, to get it spot on where it’s seen above ground. But should still have full perps and no gaps.

I’m not an SE but very sure it’s doable with the right bearing detail. The fact that the wall is single skin doesn’t mean it can’t take the chimney load.

You don’t need a dpc above the house wall dpc height, no. But make sure you deal with it below dpc height. It’d never be a breathable membrane here. No airflow involved.

What’s the outside wall(s) like in terms of how well protected/pointed, any leaking gutters/downpipes etc. Photos will help

I deffo wouldn’t do that, I know it’s a faff but re-routing the aco and rainwater pipe into that IC, is gonna be a better solution and worry free then

Drilling a few holes in it may help if you go all the way through with a long bit Or bed a paving slab or two down so you’ve got a dry bit to step out onto

Agree. I’ll randomly give you a guesstimate figure of about £350 ballpark which it might cost. It wouldn’t be that much less, if you went for just a skim

Not sure there are many other options? Your additional 300mm will get you better than most houses. Not sure what the condensation concern is.

You wouldn’t need to fill. As long as you do a decent job of boarding it (right direction across the joists, stagger the boards, enough screws, gaps no more than about 8mm ish) any plasterer would be good to go.

It’d be easifil, and they’d need to be tapered edged boards. I wouldn’t go that route, and pay someone a couple of hundred to skim it instead.

Is it vented at the top? Probably needs to be, that’ll reduce chance of it pulling the gulley

I thought that, but then realised the photo is taken in the (converted) loft.