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Does it happen when temperature changes quickly? could be thermal movement

Once you’ve got the 3 courses out, just take the extra few out for the bearing at each end. Half brick bearing is gonna be fine for this, rather than try and go beyond to get 150mm. Might just lift out, or gently with a bolster, lump hammer, SDS. Or stitch drill out… don’t think you’ll...

Pretty much exactly as you say, the fact that the soffit is off will make it easier. 150mm ish bearing each side. you’d need to fix the cavity tray against inner skin and have a slope to weep holes, although whether one’s actually needed if there wasn’t one before and you haven’t had any issues…

If you’ve got a solid fixing into the masonry it’ll be fine. Or, cut out and put a noggin in if you’d rather. But I’d just crack on

That’s a cracking price if it’s really 60sqm.

Guessing their block paved patio may have bridged your dpc if there is one. Also, worth checking your roof to ensure there’s no water run off on that side. Might have a load of debris on it from trees, stopping it draining elsewhere. Bottom area of wall very visibly water affected on the outside…

Spring toggle type fixing

You could sister new joists level, alongside each existing, well fixed to existing. Can be less than 7” deep. Likely to be a lot less hassle. I’d be very sure the root cause of the wall dropping is 100% sorted beforehand tho.

On the washing machine side, can’t you just run a standpipe up the back of the machine (washing machines are normally a bit shallower than dishwashers aren’t they?) and right down the bottom, a couple of offsets to bring it out a bit to suit the 110mm, which the cut-off section at the bottom of...

I’d go through the wall to an outside gulley/110mm bung. Easy access to clear blockages via a 40mm tee with access plug where it comes out the wall.

Paramount walls in this place too. I’ve dabbed new boards over them which has made burying new pipes easy and beefed the walls up a bit. I remember key terrain, decent guttering brand at the time. Long gone now I guess, along with Bartol (?), rymway …

It’s the horizontal bit that worries me.

Turns out the whole lot’s done in 3” plastic, I opened up the internal boxing and it goes down into a cast concrete pad a couple of feet under the ground suspended timber floor. Gotta be original from the late 70s when it was built. Anyone else come across this? I still think I’ll redo the...

I’m sure the dedicated team of roofers over at the roofing forum will take this feedback on board. The advice from the builders on this forum, will of course be completely different (y)

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Almost certain it’s 82mm, which as far as I can make out does/did exist. The actual fittings look exactly like today’s 110mm stuff, just scaled down.

I normally mask off the tray leaving about the last 8mm exposed which the tiling and silicone bead will cover.

Deffo looking at actual pipe, like I say, it’s 80s era grey push fit branch, elbow etc all visible. Ripping it out is a mahoosive effort involving multiple rooms. I believe it probably does covert to 110mm somewhere further down tho.

Oh cheers, that says 90mm but I guess that’s the outer diameter. ? I’ll grab one of those hopefully do the trick

Yeah that’s what I’m struggling to find. Pan connector which goes from standard pan to 82mm pipe rather than pipe to pipe adapter which I don’t think I’ve got room for