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dont get a builder to look at it, get a specialist damp proof company to look at it for you. they will have many years experience of this type of problem and it is very difficult to diagnose without seeing the problem itself. if the patch appears after heavy rainfall then it suggests to me...

if the joists are out and are not easily sorted back to level then i would go for a suspended ceiling.

from what you have described it does sound like a case of rising damp, just make sure the plasterer uses a good quality waterproofer in the mix and does not at any point breach the injected course and you should be ok. :D

i would have imagined the damp proof company would have ruled out anything other than rising damp hence the injection treatment. but check the mortar beds, outside make sure they are solid and there are no knackered brick or holes where water could be penetrating. are the walls drying out...

the damp proofers may not have identified any salts on your wall then, its quite easy to spot as its white crystals on the wall that look like rock salt!!! :shock: if you have any then you should have the walls treated for salt ingress. the rendering up process is pretty straight forward...

sounds like you may have salt in the walls, did the damp proofers spray the walls with any form of anti sulphate solution to kill of the salt? if not this will need to be done but the injection treatment should resolve your damp problems. why did the damp proofers not re render the wall...

i use a bucket trowel rather than a gauging trowel.

for floating its a marshi s/s rubber handle 14" skim its a wooden handle tyzack 14". also got a marshi midget trowel an 11" one, margin trowels and a pipe trowel but apart from the margin trowels and the top two i hardly use the others.

i would use 3x2 for the stud wall that should be sufficient for what you need, put extra noggins in to strengthen it all. when ever i have done my own bathroom work i have always boarded out stud walls and skimmed them and to make the whole thing watertight i have tanked the walls that would...

:D

as with everything in the trade trowelmonkey, the more you get involved in it the more people of different trades you meet, you get to know them and eventually a few become mates aswell. it helps enormously to bounce ideas off them and their experiences helps you to overcome problems you will...

jesus trowel monkey how quick was that reply :shock: :D , you must be skiving aswell

trowel monkey touched on lining paper why not fill sand and then line the walls then paint em? :shock:

not got a clue trowelmonkey, never used em as no need, any ceiling of massive proportions that i cant manage myself i call a mate who is also a sread to work on em rather this than kill yourself rushin. :shock: :D

fit the boards in a brickwork fashion to minimize the amount of continuous joints, lay the boards across the joists and use screws. get yourself some board props to make it easier on yourself.

there is no real answer, pvaing it thoroughly will give you more time, dont play around too much with it, bust your balls to get it on asap. i just done a victorian terrace hall, stairs and landing. hall was about 7mtr long then the stairs, and then double the length of hallway on the...

i agree with richard c. i have just completed one of these jobs today, however i will do the chippy work myself and board, skim etc. However if new lighting is to be installed then in accordance with part p you will need an spark to either do this for you or to certify this for you as...

you need to assess exactly how many blown parts there are before deciding to use easifill or similar. i would say that if the wall is more than 10% blown then to call a pro in and get it floated and skimmed properly. if you decide to do it yourself then hack the blown render of to reveal the...

when you noticed the damp what colour was the staining? only it could be a mixture of salt ingress and condensation. everyone laughs when i tell people that the cause of their damp problems is poor air flow in their rooms but it happens and it can be bad enough to blow the plaster. The...

if there are no signs of damp on the inside i would would remove the render to above the dpc level then redo the render using bellcast beads.