Search results

OP, You can just see what looks like the line of the drip edge just behind & below the gutter - the drip edge should discharge over the gutter not behind it. This means that there is no drip edge piece forcing the drip edge off the fascia. You cannot leave rotting wood and a defective leaking...

xxxxx Your posts are too often not appropriate. Expect to have your posts removed and find that you are locked out of threads.

OP, Pics would help? Forget about vermiculite - its messy to install, and problematic. Besides some installers dont know how to prepare the vermiculite. Modern double wall SS liners are all the insulation you need. SS Liners dont need supporting inside the flue, & will typically last, without...

OP, No need for expense or journeys. For a bit of patching use whatever sand you have at hand - no need for additives or plasticiser. Take up suction with water - could be there's no need to wait but its a judgement call, & then hurl the stones - use a straight edge to pull the patch in line...

Poster20, Stop ducking the questions I asked you - and the simple statements I made about your lack of knowledge. Wheres your response? Remember the dry rot mushroom rubbish you advised nonsense that could have cost the OP thousands - are you going to run away again? You fled, disappeared for...

OP, You need to sweep the flue & have a redundant flue cowl sitting in a chimney pot at the top of the flue. Box off the fireplace surrounds for the electric stove with backer board on three walls & a top. And install a 9"x3" Hit&Miss vent on the outside of the chimney breast Left Hand...

OP, I made mistakes ref pics in post #11 but given I'm looking at badly focused and lighted pics in post #11 - my impression is that I can clearly see dry rot. Better pics would help. There's also active rot showing in other places - as my earlier post mentioned. You dont just leave dry rot, or...

Poster #7, Your question is irrelevant to the thread - but I'll answer it. The thread is talking about a bathroom floor where my spacing dimensions would be typically adequate. Roof sheathing, timber frame sheathing & flat roof deck would have 3mm or 4mm between sheets, and edge spacing...

Not for T&G sheet materials.

OP, Keep your arch its a rare Victorian survivor - dont go knocking everything about or using a concrete lintel. The lintel & infill need replacing with, say, a steel, Former strap just like the wrought iron ones supporting Victorian fireplace arches. There would be no need for a Big Boy Acrow...

OP, You lay the ply in a broken bond with 5mm expansion gaps at the abutment edges & , say, 2/3 mm gaps between ply sheets. The backer board is also laid in broken bond while avoiding the joins in the ply. Its common knowledge in the building trade that backer boards joins are fibre meshed taped...

OP, Its obvious that the window sill is split - it was obvious in the first pics. There's very poor sealant showing but the pic shows only one small area of the surround. So without pics showing much more of the outside I'm afraid I cant help you anymore.

***

OP, If you investigate the side wall slots (pic #1, post #4), perhaps you will find them to be vents cut into the channel sides when the drainage was installed? Shine a light through them or poke a stick. Any air bricks would have been bridged when the pavement was raised. Do the same with the...

Poster #39, Are you claiming that you have repaired leaking lead pipes using the "metallurgy 101" "several times"? What do you mean by saying "tallow is not a well specified material" The easiest answer to the OP's question is to cut the pipe at the leak & use a lead pipe coupler to repair...

OP, Why not disconnect the two white nuts and remove the fitting & examine inside it for blocking? Why not post a pic of the waste from above?

OP, Well done for doing the rather inexpensively obvious & digging out as I suggested: "Why not dig down". So far no need for expensive CCTV camera work. Presumably its an old solid wall - ie. no cavity? When you block up why not dig outside & replace the holed bricks - & then fill the inside...

OP, The soil pipe is not centred in the salt glaze socket. Why not dig down - & root out all the soil around the socket including the back & RH side of the socket, & then carefully examine the back & the RH side? Perhaps the drainage is broken somewhere out of sight, & thats where the rats are...

You can bed the drain on dry stone or concrete or compacted soil. Providing you can still connect to the gulley then move the drain to touch the house wall, & fill the gap to the tile with S&C.

Poster #6, Yes, its an Oriel.