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:roll:

Tell me what you are expecting?

What boiler do you have? Maybe the paddle is stuck in one actuator? I got mine sorted by changing the bypass valve on the wall.

The actuators are the wrong way round. Possibly even wired wrong. Or the battery inside the actuators is too strong causing resistance on the water side. Could also be the copper pipes leading up to the actuators being too clean? Paint them that will help. One last thing is check pump is...

You have checked it's not coming from the gland on the rad valve?

Gas safe or heating engineer, whatever we call ourselves wouldn't touch you in a heartbeat.

I assume open vented? Is there a tank in the loft? That's an old boiler, how long do you think boilers last? What car do you drive? A 1990 model?

Are you getting 240v on brown/orange when CH demands?

Warm air has about the same efficiency as heating a room with a hairdryer.

Is fan running?

What are you talking about? A customer wants a commission on gas, flue, ventilation, safety etc. Nothing to do with efficiency or effective system. They've chose to plump it, let them deal with it.

I bet Honeywell love you.

You have a leak.

This model does not have Phex.

1 millibar sounds worrying.

Jesus. On a correctly fitted system and bypass with 2x 2ports, what the eff are you going to save on gas?

What tests are you going to do? My gas bill is high and I work in the industry, any help appreciated.

Take it out then, fit a gate valve, turn it down until your costs come down.

Why are you obsessed with the bypass? You're gaining nothing from your post. Everything is working isn't it? UPs2 can manage their load.

Where do your downstairs rad pipework go? That's a leak, a big one. If you can't find it, it will mean re-pipe.