Search results

Agile likes to take you down the wrong path. Don't worry about his ramblings. If you have heating and hot water you are not considered a risk. If it was fitted in Dec, I'd strongly suspect the pressure would need re-filling, turn blr off then back on, the display should read water pressure in...

Condemning it not safe. This can be applied to At Risk issues where you were told the flue gas test was high. You would be left with a notice and it would be your responsibility to use after this advice. ID condemn would be where the appliance is capped off from gas. I think this whole thread...

Jesus Christ. Take the SCR unit off, link live into call on the wiring backplate. If heating works it's the SCR, if not it's the actuator.

What computer did he use for these readings? Oh hang on I've just seen the pictures ;)

The 2nd tap is an easy fix. The bottom one far more difficult. Don't know what you mean by tapping it and stopping the leak. I'd prepare £150-£190 for the 2nd tap fix.

Prat.

No cover missing, lower bar outlet should be open. If it's an Energysaver than expect the leaks to from the boiler itself.

Most and including Tony do not charge a call out. Why are you so mithered by this? I'd strongly suspect it's just the flow switch, but my call out fee is included and I'd be £150.

Now he's going to plaster over his chopped out mess. :D

I think you've fitted a double when a single radiator was in place, yes?

I'm surprised you're asking. She's dancing around the kitchen right now in the bubbles ;)

By the look of that, I'd think that will be least of your problems.

I doubt it's the hex, the prv is passing and should've been changed when the expansion was fitted.

Take the allen screw out completely. Wiggle it like mad and pull it off. They can be tight sometimes.

The Greenstar Ri are sensitive to a Y Plan system anything from 70v to 110v usually from the grey wire, hot water off causes the boiler to fire. There is a kit available RC Device part number 8-716-109-275-0.

Is it kettling? If your Suprima is old it's a cast iron one, if it's HE the newer condensing version it's not. Doing any of the above will not help whatever problem you have.

On the left hand side? A picture would help. If you haven't had it serviced or any work done it for years I'd be suspecting plate hex. Don't know any west mids but cost could go into £400-500, I would say new boiler time, no point paying a repair. Have you tried BG etc?

Dripping from where? Plate hex at a guess. Thermistor. Flow valve. Old boiler but a real tank and bullet proof.

What sisters?

Pressurise boiler to 2.5bar. Close isolation valves on the flow and return to your boiler. Give it 24hrs and note any loss. If no loss, turn on the isolation valves and note loss. This will prove boiler or system leak. Bit cold for that though hey ;)