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Thanks all; going to try a brass nut insted of the one supplied and also leave the plastic spacer to see if that sorts it.

Do you mean between the underneath of the sink and the white plastic thing? The way that it is in my image is the way that the tap instructions laid it out. I tried leaving the plastic bit out and just used rubber washer, steel washer and then tightening; it was tighter but still could turn the...

Have a new monobloc kitchen tap and ceramic sink; have fitted plenty in the past and never had a problem until now! Fitted the tap and tightened as much as I'm able and the tap body turns fairly easily in the sink; seems like the rubber o ring in the tap base just doesn't grip the ceramic...

Thanks, that has cleared something up; always learning!

Thanks, I get what you're saying. I got the info re 5-50w from the BG manufacturer info for that specific switch so I may just contact them to see if they can explain that.

Thanks for that The lamps are dimmable led's and the specs for the dimmer say 5-50w for those lamps .

Thanks for that. Yes, interference somewhere was something I'd thought about; just not sure where/why/how and if it was, if there would there be a way to suppress it! Reverting to the old switch is an idea just to see.

My relatives recently fitted a dimmer switch and have intermittently been plagued with the ceiling mounted smoke detector being activated; it only happens when the dimmer is switched on and not all of the time. Of course it may be nothing to do with the dimmer at all and I'd be grateful for any...

Thanks John, I'll live with any future eyebrows and carry on with wago's and add an earth.

Thanks for that reply, given the info I'll use wago's and add an earth cable.

Yes that's what I was thinking, thanks. Unless anyone else comes up with a reason not to I'll be connecting the live and neutral with wago 221's and the main earth to the metal of the light fitting.

When connected into the wagos there would be no exposed copper. The live and neutral from the lamp fitting flex, once removed from the plastic terminal box, will not have the protection of the outer sheath once fitted into a wago connector, unless I put it into a wago box which I'd rather not...

Thanks for the replies so far guys; I take the point about not soldering, I didn't know that however we are drifting from my original question.

Thanks; it's not fitting into the supplied junction box that is my question. I want to do away with the supplied junction box because I don't like them and use Wago's instead.

Thanks for your reply. If I had to use the supplied plastic terminal block, yes I would solder the strands. I'm trying to avoid using it and use wago 221's which would make the lamp not double insulated.

I hate the cheapy plastic connector boxes which come supplied with metal ceiling and wall lamp fittings (pic attached). I would, before fitting, ideally like to replace the connectors with a wago 221's for ease of connecting. Probably being pedantic but I would prefer a lever type connection. I...

Yes that's absolutely correct, the only current draw at any one time is use of the 2400w appliance and 35w total led lights.

Thanks for that. The plug is on the 16 amp lead that supplies the van, it has the standard 16 amp round pin socket that plugs into the van on one end and 13 amp 3 pin socket that plugs into any domestic 240 volt outlet on the other end. I will get the pics on Thursday, I'm not local and my...

They're unbranded and BS1362 certified, prob a screwfix/toolstation product.

Certainly going to do the lamp test a.s.a.p, at least that would be something to go on.