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Laid some like this few years back, definitely bought from Covers.

fill the cracks with frame filler or decorators' caulk from a caulking gun. Do it from the street side and smooth off with finger. Might have to be in brown.

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a question for the fencers. I keep some sizes at home, 1800mm featherboards, 4"x4"x8 foot posts etc. I believe f/b's kept inside dry out too quick and split when used. Should they all stay out in the moist outside air? Any opinions.? Thanks. Dean.

hello moog, probably your last diagnosis. Could you fix some means of deflection over the protruding base? Quicker than reassembling the shed with no protruding base. Maybe some plastic renderer's bellcast with the retaining lip cut off.

If you mean artex , don't bother. It's a pig of a job even for professionals.

Agree with Robbie. Even an electric stripper if you don't fancy gas. ( when I first used paint stripper in the mid 70's one coat then did an awful lot of work).

Thanks newbee, a usefull post you started and I liked the advice from the regulars.

Hello bristolpaul. You'll end up making the framework out of wood. Takes longer but wood captured from skips will allow money 2 B spent on the sides and roof material, be it plastic corrugated, shiplap or whatever.

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hello Craig. Il like 20% mist coat of emulsion then stain block or undercoat.The mist coat sinks in the new plaster and grips.

pva is put on a surface before plastering. It should not be put on after plastering but for some years people did do this. The after-pva becomes a problem in damp areas like kitchens and bathrooms. If you're set on getting rid of the indentations then use Easifil powdered filler to give...

hello katfish, are they drips of plaster, or more like where a liquid ran down that no amount of paint can cover? If the latter, they might be pva streaks.Try painting over with an oil based undercoat close in colour to your emulsion. Then as normal.

evening crackerjack. Same as JohnD. and use a Henry to get the wood flakes out. Then hammer the new post down the " concrete hole".Sometimes a little shaving off before it goes in ok.

Slice the bubbles with older style razor blade, fill with your joint compound/easifill and one more time when it's dry. Remove and start again usually ends up messy.

evening pineapple. Agree with cleaning from bottom up. I did the same when cleaning cars, otherwise some cleaning products left a drip streak that needed T-cut to remove.

I've shored up a patio sliding down a slope using cores with rebars running through them into decent footings.But concrete base seems right for large footprint like 5x4 summerhouse.

evening fubar. I did a shower in 2005 on plasterboard. See it regularly, no problems.I did butter lay the tiles, didn't use notched spreader. I didn't tank it, wasn't so widespread then. Tanking seems a very worthwhile precaution.

evening to the forum. I do a band of adhesive on top edge of the previous sheets each side of the apex( but clout through the top sheet at the eves).I believe it holds better and for longer but sometimes drips into the shed on t&g roofs. Any opinion from shed repairers welcome.

it's not for foundations under the frost line, it's to hold individual paving slabs in place laid as stepping stones. Phoned the manufacturer's help line but none committal. Does anyone do it? Advice appreciated.