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The normal arrangement is the 'industry standard' wallplate, but the snag is they don't necessarily connect to the same terminals on that plate. A new device generally comes with a list of which terminals other popular brands and models used, but you might have to work it out yourself. Ask...

If it's a brand new system it could be air that was in the water coming out when it's heated and settling in the near point to the heat source. In which case it will eventually all come out. Perhaps a month? If that's not it, perhaps air is entering at the low pessure point, being the flange on...

I do it the long way, which is to calculate the area of every surface (including measuring windows and doors), then applying the appropriate factor for the surface material and the temperature difference. Then I add the losses due to air change (volume of room x temperature difference x air...

It's worth checking that there's no air as a first thing, but hot at the top, cold at the bottom usually means it's blocked with debris. how old is it? how long have you had it? Has it ever worked? details of system etc?

It's only a battery operated switch. You could take it off the wall and see if the two terminals will turn on a torch bulb conneted to a battery if you haven't got a multimeter.

What's an UFH?

Isolate the rads by closing valves both ends. Drain & remove rads. Do they still tick? If so, follow Kev's advice! If the pipes they were connected to still tick, carry on exposing pipework until you find the place where your hot water pipe(s) touch the rad pipes and separate them. Assuming you...

Following Slugs suggestion of a stop end on the vent, I had a house with this problem and found a wine cork did the job. My thinking was that if the vent needed to vent it could easily blow the cork out! Obviously not an approved technique by H & S. You know you've got this problem if you try...

I thought these things were coded, so that they may be in the same band, but not interfere with each other. Your car key remote isn't going to open my car, I hope! As you say it's recently installed, it would be nice to think you could get a refund. A bit wishful, I suppose.

It sounds to me that you have a classic airlock, which commonly happens in this situation. I assume you have a cold water tank? Caused by the pipes not being 'laid to falls' so that the air rises to a point where it can escape. Not a big problem. Connect the cold mains (at the sink, usually) to...

oh dear!

If you look on the danfoss site, they still list this model, so you could just get a new one if you want. There isn't a problem in changing to a digital style if you prefer. most of these go on to 'industry standard' backplates, so are easy to fit, but they can use different terminals for the...

I think you'd have to be pretty unlucky to get interference between these two. Why can't you turn the alarm off for a while to see if that sorts it out, and if it does or even doesn't, you'll have the answer.

How about making a fuss by writing to the installer rejecting the installation as 'unfit for the purpose for which it was sold' and requesting a full refund? You have to be quick to do this, or you can lose your rights, and it seems hard on the installer, but what other options have you? Can't...

The usual set up is that the little bleed screw is set into a larger plug about 1/2" diameter. If you get your problem you change the whole thing for a pound or so (screw & plug). Some are removed with a hex spanner, some with a special key called - wait for it - a radiator key!! You can get...

The problem is that most modern boilers draw in air at the same point they emit it. Your existing discharge point is full of exhaust from other peoples boilers, if you are sharing a common exhaust flue, so you can't draw fresh air in from it to supply the boiler with something it can use. You'd...

Bet the missus won't like it if the cleaner smells of Jeyes

Might be fitted backwards. Some have an arrow on them indicating flow direction. If the arrow points to the rad, then the pipe it's fitted to should get hot first on start-up, and vice versa. Most newer ones are not sensitive to flow direction, I believe. Some, eg current Danfoss can have the...

Sounds like you're in luck if there's a thermostat on the cylinder, you won't need to reduce the boiler temperature, which would have obvious implications for the effectiveness of the radiators. I wonder if the bloke who specified 'no adjustables' on the boiler Agile saw, was the same bloke...

If you cut in a gate valve to the 15mm cold supply, you could limit the flow rate of the cold, to match the hot when both taps are fully open. You'd also be able to isolate the cold locally for servicing. If you added another isolating valve to the hot - even better! I'd use a gate valve, not a...