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If the Sentinel was going to make a difference, it would do so straight away. It's a corrosion inhibitor, that's all. It stops the 'gassing up' in the future. It doesn't remove existing gas or air. I think you need to start again. Is the water black? If so, drain the system, refill with cleaner...

I don't understand. Is there a false wall covering up the existing supply pipe? If so, does the pipe go up or down (or sideways, even)? I think if you knew, you'd probably have your answer. If you cut your floorboard where it's not supported, you'll have more work than you wanted to sort it out...

As I said earlier, I think you are entitled to withhold the entire cost of rectification, with the possible exception of sorting out the pipes on the landing, because you didn't agree how the pipework would be run before he started (although you did raise it as an issue when you saw it). This...

Why not call in British Gas and ask for a quote for rectification. Say you want a codensing boiler if possible. They'll tell you if a condensing boiler is, in fact, reasonably possible. Then ask a general builder, who is a member of a recognised trade organisation, eg federation of master...

Did building control approve these alterations?

and re-treat the system, of course.

Adjustable basin wrench?

Most, if not all, thermostats of the mechanical type, intended for use with central heating, have an 'accelerator', which is a resistor that warms up the bimetallic strip. This effectively cures the problem you describe. you can tell if you have the right type by taking the cover off. there...

isn't it the case that the shower is cooler because the water coming in is colder now? Therefore, no problem exists and you don't need to do anything. Except wait for the spring!

you remove the large chromed plug in the centre of the round part of the pump. It has a screwdriver slot. Don't lose the O ring that seals it! The air and only a dribble of water will come out. You can do it with the pump running, usually. If unsuccessful, try it with the pump off.

If you've got a frost stat like a room stat (only for lower temps), then it's measuring the temperature of the garage, which presumably isn't heated. So it runs until either the boiler achieves it's set point, or the garage warms up. It won't stop until the weather changes!! You could manage...

Doing it from scratch wil take longer than you think, but it's very satisfying when it all works. Wickes do a free leaflet. Which publish a book, that covers heat calculations and pipe sizing and other aspects, but the copy I've got isn't fully up to date, maybe they've revised it. The copper...

I haven't got an answer , but----- I fitted just the head (pancake) from a unit I bought in Homebase, very similar in appearance to the Argos unit you show. This was in substitution for the slightly smaller original one supplied with a Tre Mercati shower head that didn't have a swivel. the flow...

If it's not the pipes, then it's the brackets. Have they got the plastic bits where they touch the rads? Does the noise stop if you lift up the weight of the rad?

the pump could pull air in if it's set too fast, in certain circumstances, try setting to slowest speed. If the washer on the inlet side of the pump is faulty, it could also let air in, but would then leak when everything is off. Got any records from the previous people?

You could buy a clip on pipe thermosat for about £10 -£15, put it on the flow pipe and see what temperature you've got. If the boiler stat has failed at 20 years it hasn't done badly, really.

Make sure you've got water in the feed and expansion tank. Depending on the configuration of the pipework (the feed pipe connection to the circulating loop is effectively at atmospheric pressure plus the head of standing water above it. If this connects to the outlet side of the pump (it...

Your new programmer will allow separate control, but only if you add some plumbing bits. If you add a thermostat tied on to the outside of the hot water cylinder and a 2 port motorised valve, you can get the heating side to be on when the water is off. The wiring scheme to do this might require...

And suggests it's a good idea to reuse washers!!!

I don't agree it's directly proportional. The heat lost from a radiator depends on how hot the room is, as well as how hot the radiator is. if you have two adjacent rooms, heated to the same temperature, the heat lost through the wall between them will be nil. If you then don't heat one of the...