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without claiming to be an expert, i should have thought that if you fitted the one prv on the main and adjusted it correctly, you should be able to achieve a flow to the shower as good as before the pressure increased, whilst limiting the excess to the rest. How about getting a pressure guage...

Does the washing machine fill in the time specified in the instruction book? If it's filling too fast you need to slow it down - restrictor in hose, as suoolied with washing machine? Partially close washing machine isolating valve? As said before, look for poorly secured pipework. These items...

Tried changing the floatvalve for a different brand?

maybe all the TRV's close, increasing the velocity through the only route left. Try opening up one rad valve to verify.

RS sell a kit in their catalogue - but the cost!!!! Why don't you get the right thing from the shower maker?

Sounds like progress! For the pipe insulation, you will need to get 'closed cell' type, not 'open cell'. The difference is that if you put it in water, the closed cell type floats (absorbs no water), the open cell type gets waterlogged. Armaflex make a closed cell sort, sold for lagging chilled...

Yes, the pins. If you can take off the head of the valve (the bit you turn), you are left with the brass or chromed brass body of the valve attached to the pipe and the rad. This will have a small pin (about 1 or 2 mm diameter) sticking out of it, in the centre of the body, directly under where...

You didn't say if the pins in the thermostatic valves go up and down. Do they?

Sure it's a combi? with an immersion? take the chrome plug out of the middle of the pump to expose the rotor. See if the rotor goes round (push a scewdriver blade against the rotor when the system is on and hear the scraping noise, sometimes there's a slot in the end of the rotor so you can turn...

If you look on the pages by the copper development association, you'll find advice on how to put copper pipes in concrete floors. Wickes do a free leaflet telling you how to do the earth bonding, or at least did last time i looked

The burner can't put gas into the the water unless there's a hole in the metal. If there was a hole, you'd know because it would leak water! When you heat cold water the oxygen dissolved in it comes out as bubbles (look in your kettle or saucepan BEFORE it boils to see this). If the oxygen is...

I found the 'Fluidmaster' valve sorted my brother in laws similar problem

Some taps are not suitable for gravity feed (low pressure). Some taps are not suitable for high pressure. Some taps are suitable for either. The retailer should be able to tell you.

You need to try this:- With the boiler off - If you have a small tank in the loft, ensure that it has some water in it and that the ballvalve lets a bit of water in when you push the float down If you don't have a small tank in the loft, read the pressure gauge on the boiler (when it is off...

Condensation is caused by warm moist air meeting a cold surface. There are three remedies. 1 - increase heating (to hold the moisture in the air). 2 - increase the insulation (to prevent the warm air being cooled). 3 - increase the ventilation (to remove the moist air). You may have to pay...

This can be the pipework under the floorboards moving as it heats up and expands - perhaps pressing against a joist. The problem is made much more likely if a long straight pipe supplies the radiator, so the pipe jams between the building and it's two ends when it grows. If the rad stops the...

I think you will find if you look on the pages put out by the copper development asociation on the net, that stainless steel pipe is not approved for use in concrete floors. they also give recommendations as to how you should do it - using copper.

Yes, i put a magna clean in when I changed the boiler (but not the rads)last week. the system was pretty clean to start with and I chemically cleaned it as well. The magna clean has collected a bit of magnetite, so it seems to work, but a week isn't long enough to say more

Thanks Chris, I hadn't really considered a sealed system before this, because I thought it was just an unnecessary complication, more bits to go wrong etc. Now I'm thinking perhaps it's worth doing! Many thanks.

Yes ChrisR, the feed pipe goes down 4 foot below the 22mm pipe it feeds before it rises up to the f & e cistern. Is that ok/what we want? The point of connection is on the underside of a horizontal pipe about 70mm away from the vent connection (has to be less than 150mm, I understand) to the...