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Just thought I would post the following alternative opinion on this (although I do still appreciate the advice above). This is from an American manufacturer, but the principles are the same, and they say blocking (noggins) not required if solid wood floor going on top. They don't explain why...

No, regular square edge

See my other post, I have supports.

Ah, sorry, I see the concern. No, the joists are supported at a couple of points in the middle. I think the span tables allowed between 1.7 and 1.5m depending on the loading. I have a max clear span of 1m. This was the tradeoff I was working with. Its a long story but the floor at the front of...

Think you misread my post. The old joists were touching floor not the new ones

Void is about 150mm now in most places. Will get 90mm insulation between joists. Coxncrete would not be a good idea, no dpm in walls and some issues with ground levels so the approach I am taking is probably the best of a number of bad options.

Not undersized. I consulted the span tables beforehand and they are well with tolerances. Granted they are thinner than is typical but I had a very shallow void and the previous joists were resting on the ground in places.

Ok, thanks. There isn't very much flex at the moment on those edges and I had hoped the solid boards running across them would give enough support. I presume I could get away with less deep noggins, given the only purpose is to support the edges.

I have just built a new suspended timber subfloor, 3m length 95x45mm joists at 450mm centres. I am about to put 18mm plywood on top, perpendicular to the joists. The short edges have been cut so they meet on a joist, but although I have a fitted a couple of noggins across each joist they are not...

That's not really an answer to the question. B and Q sell 'loft' insulation, but that doesn't mean you can't use it for floors. :giggle: I saw someone once before on another forum who said they primed the ends of the joists and stuck flashband on as the DPM. I think the reasoning was that it...

Thanks. I will give this some thought. After raking out the surface debris the ground did seem quite solid, and where I did try to dig down a little I needed a pick to help break it up. I had been thinking of maybe using a little sand to help bed them flat and had been thinking that the fact its...

No, there are no pockets for the joists. The original joists were sitting on bricks or cut out to fit around the footings. Its an old house, probably from the very early days of suspended floors. I don't agree about covering the solum with plastic, that could potentially force moisture into the...

Thanks. That's a good idea. I actually have a bunch of leftover dense and aerated blocks that I can use. My preference is to use individual blocks rather than a continuous wall to help maximise airflow which is pretty poor.

Thanks. I was thinking that I would put DPM at both the bottom of the blocks and the top. The bottom to stop the wall getting damp and the top in case the bottom DPM gets comprised over time as debris tends to build up in solums. Also on joist ends. Heard a tip somewhere to use flashband on the...

To be honest I was just going to rest the blocks on the ground. That's the way it was on the few joists that were already raised on bricks and the ground is quite well compressed.

Hi, Rebuilding a suspended timber ground floor (200 year old house). Previous joists were about 170mm depth but were resting on soil so were completely rotted. I am planning on replacing with 95mm depth (by 45mm) C24 treated joists at 400mm centres. The room width is only 3m and the allowed...

I am going to be putting a solid wooden floor down over battens and when I was browsing some videos I came across this one from Junckers - It is quite old but it looks like it is a manufacturers video, but I was surprised to see the finished floor put straight over battens, and even more...

Anyone? :unsure:

Hi, I need to build a floating subfloor to sit on a not quite level solid structural base. I have never done this before and I would greatly appreciate if someone who has could have a look over and let me know if it seems like it would be sold it enough, or offer any advice if not. My...

The photo below might be a bit better, external profile that was blurred isn't that important anyway, its the cutaway so that it sits on top of a flat board that I wanted to show. I think I have found what it is now anyway. I think it is 'rebated dado rail'. Found a few examples of it online...