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You are right - it is circulating at all times. Will adjust. Thank you for your help.

I've attached a picture of the two wireless detector types - can you help in figuring out what batteries I need

Only the central heating valve . It is interesting you are asking the question about the bypass valve installation. Boiler initially installed without external bypass because plumber said this boiler had an internal bypass. When I got a Vaillant engineer to do my annual service he wasn't happy...

Nothing showing low battery - normally change them every two years. Thought I would trigger a tamper alarm if I did it myself. How did you change batteries with customer code?

You are right - it is an S plan plus system - I meant to say I have 3 ports valves. I have checked again - looks ok. I've attached pictures for each. First one is valve by cylinder Second one is valve for flow heating third is valve for underfloor heating.

Some background. Went from vented to unvented system 5yrs ago when I added an extension to the house. I have 15 radiators and underfloor heating. Boiler fitted was a Vaillant Ecotec plus 637. It's a 3 port valve system for heating, hot water and underfloor heating. Water cylinder is 290 litres...

I have an existing Risco alarm system which include 3 wireless internal detectors upgraded 4 years ago. My alarm company doesn't 't want to maintain them anymore because they are out-dated and want me to upgrade again. Can't afford that right now but need to replace the batteries ( they were...

You are right - noticed the fitting of the new doughnut seal abit loose around the fill valve nut - was expecting as you say more of a 'squeeze'. Another separate issue you might be able to help with - any idea why my new fill valve is causing water hammer but the old one isn't? I have had to...

Thank you Madrab and Footprints for helpful replies. I replaced the old seal (first picture) with a foam seal from Villeroy and Boch (Villeroy and Boch Fastening Set for Cisterns) to make sure I was using the correct seal. When I did a dry test fit, looked ok although the cistern sat a few mms...

Old Villeroy and Boch cistern had leaky donut seal ( see pictures below). Replaced donut seal with 2inch seal from Villeroy and Boch. Noticed the seal rested on the outer lip of the toilet bowl ( second picture) so the cistern was slight raised by a few mms. Didn't think this was an issue once...

Replaced old Geberit valve ( see pic below) with a new one as I was renewing a failed doughnut seal and decided to replace everything after 22yrs. I noticed I get water hammer with the new old but when I put old valve back on, it works ok with no water hammer. Is there some adjustment I need...

Also I have a slight drip from inlet valve when I shut off angle valve but I'm hoping that won't be a problem when I loosen nut

Thanks - I will be carefully loosen nut on pipe - if there is problem with angle valve have to shut water off in street and I don't want to do that if I can help it

yes...removed silicone using some wire to cut through silicone.

I've removed the wingnuts. You were right - looks like the cistern was glued with silicone - no screws to hold it to wall

I've removed the silicone so the cistern will pull away from wall. Used the angle valve to isolate the supply. I'm based in London

I'm trying to lift cistern away from wall but angle valve supply in the way. I'm assuming I can't rotate the angle valve arm and the only answer is unscrewing the nut to the right of the angle valve. Any thoughts/advice appreciated.

Dremel with extension did the job...thanks

Which Dremel do you recommend?

Replacing a cistern and the wingnut is in a tight space. Tried WD40, mole grips but wingnut won't bugde, just spins when I turn the screw in the cisterne. Any suggestions on how to remove anyone? (see pictures)