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Just google "flash upgrading texecom premier", first result is a pdf containing all the info you need to do it. Have you bought a flash upgrading kit or just a USB com? You'll need both.

It's usually done with separate PIRs to be honest as the best position for a PTZ camera won't necessarily be the best location for a PIR (especially mounting heights) I've installed PTZ with 8 alarm inputs before, they are out there. Failing that, most DVR/NVR will usually have at least the...

Doesn't sound like there is any need to upgrade the panel if you haven't lost police response. The proximity tag (PACE) requirement is not retrospective and only applies to new systems and those re-applying for a withdrawn URN (police response) I would certainly advise looking into upgrading...

It is possible but it isn't an elegant solution by any means. It seems to have been tacked onto the end of the Texecom app without too much consideration (may be geared up more for Texecoms own cameras if they ever release one) If you want alarm and CCTV combined in one app then Pyronix and...

Nothing that would cause any major issues, just the banner, remote reset seed, resolve call back numbers, confirm time etc.

Program a text description for PC output 1 in global settings, log in to the app as engineer/manager and do a "sync panel". It should appear under "rooms, control outputs"

Unfortunately, the ricochet expander is just a data connection back to the panel. It doesn't have any outputs to connect a wired bell unfortunately. 99% of houses will have some way of running in a cable. It might not go straight from A to B, but it's usually possible through use of built in...

I've never installed an X-W but from your photo, there doesn't appear to be anywhere to hardwire a permanent supply into.

You shouldn't need to do anything with the bell trigger wire (except keep it away from 0v/tamper return) on most bell boxes. Some do have trigger wire monitoring but you'd probably have some kind of pull up resistors between the trigger and 12v if that was the case. Won't do any harm to conect...

It's not a Texecom bell, they have green LEDs rather than red. Connect the 12v and 0v (not the bell -) to the battery, this will stop the bell from sounding when you power the panel down.

"Doesn't cost the earth" is a vague term. Some of our customers would balk at anything over £100, some will happily pay the going rate for a good system, well installed with quality equipment. Do you have a figure in mind, as it can be difficult to recommend anything without a budget. What...

There might be a gap underneath the slates where you can push some cable rods up through, especially if it's an older house with no felt/membrane between the slate and roof void. You'll be left with a small amount of cable that you'll need to feed around the back of the guttering, but once the...

I presume that the garage door controller just needs a momentary pulse to open the door? If so, assign the Pulse 1 attribute to your output and then change the Pulse 1 timer to about 5 seconds. That way, if the button is pressed, the output will switch for 5 seconds and automatically reset...

Open wintex, create a profile (site name, panel type and version and UDL code are required), click "connect via smartcom" in the toolbar, it will ask for an app code the first time you connect (generate from phone or menu 7, option 4 on the panel) Simples

As above, the system is probably set up to flash the strobe light for a few seconds when the system is armed. If the siren and strobe triggers are the wrong way around, this would explain your problem. You need to get the installers back, which I presume will be the electrical contractors for...

The exit delay by default is set to 000 seconds as it is waiting for a Final or Exit Terminate zone to terminate the setting procedure. This can be disabled by programming an exit time to anything other than 000 seconds (ie 030)

Most decent alarm companies will recommend a dual path signalling device that uses GPRS or other wireless transmission methods as its primary communication path. It's very rare that we ourselves use anything less than a single path GPRS device, but most use combined GPRS/IP these days...

I think in this situation, unless you go for an external rated PIR (big and expensive) then the best solution in this scenario would be a PIR outside the bathroom (landing?) or flush contact on the bathroom door itself.

You can test the system from engineer mode. You'll probably have to install seperate enclosures for the batteries then. There's usually enough room inside the Galaxy enclosures to house two RIOs in PCB form and a decently sized battery.

You don't need to totally remove the screw, only enough so that it's clear of the sounder cover. The cover is hinged from the top, so you need to push the white clip upwards by around 3-5mm whilst pulling the bottom edge of the blue part of the sounder away from the wall.