Search results

You don't need to fully remove the screw. Press harder on the white clip whilst pulling upwards from the bottom edge. You might need to use a screwdriver to press on the white clip to push it in further.

Do a restart (menu 51, option 17) This will force the panel to reboot back into day mode, but you will never be able to clear the battery faults. For the sake of the cost of a battery or two it makes sense to fit them.

You need to use both resistors, you can't omit the 2K2 for the reed switch. Easiest way if you have run 8 core would be to use a pair for power, a pair for the shock sensor alarm contacts, a pair for the shock sensor tamper and the remaining pair for the reed switch alarm contacts. The 4 wires...

No carrier means that the Smartcom can't get to the internet. Have you connected the Smartcom to the router via Wi-Fi? What router do you have? Double check that you've put the Wi-Fi password in correctly and check that you are connected to the 2.4ghz network on the router rather than the 5ghz...

Sorry, still not understanding what's going on from that. I can help you out but I'm going to need specific details of the error messages you're getting. Have you followed the instructions to the letter? At which step in the instructions are you unable to get past due to this problem? What...

Your post doesn't make a lot of sense. You don't connect the Smartcom to the keypad, it connects to Com 1 and Com 2 on the control panel PCB. When you say it "comes up as not connected to the smartcom", what specific error messages are you getting? This should help to narrow it down. You...

Assign the Part Arm Silent attribute to area A in Area Programming>Area Options (it's one of the first options)

The installers of tomorrow won't have a clue how to hard wire a system, which is a real shame. A lot of the skill and pride of fitting a proper wired system with all cabling hidden is disappearing. Wireless has its place but I think alot of companies now see it as a one size fits all solution...

I haven't used the panic feature of Connect myself, but one solution might be as follows: Keep the emergency button setup as reset Program an output on the panel as PC Control 1, with the Pulse 1 attribute. Program Pulse Period 1 to 5 seconds in Global>System Timers Give that output a text...

You can't. There is a keyswitch zone type but this will arm and disarm the system. You can get wireless keypads for the Enforcer, or wireless keyfobs to arm/disarm.

You could do it that way. You would need to connect the 12v and 0v supply of the sounder to the power supply, then connect the bell and strobe trigger wires to the 0v of the power supply. Disregard the tamper return connection on the bell box and make sure that its internal battery is...

Another vote for the XB/XB-E and Security Warehouse. The Pyronix Deltabell is nowhere near as sturdy as the XB and unless you buy the additional "lightbox" module, the illumination is rubbish on the Delta. I've always like the engineer hold off mode of the Odyssey bells too. Great idea whoever...

There is a jumper link on the main PCB (labeled something like "Memory BK"). It's on the right hand side of the board. You need to down power the panel completely, open the wire link above, re-apply power and close the link. It should now be returned to factory settings, just be advised that...

Don't forget that with Connect being a free service, it can't be 100% relied upon. Texecom's servers are down occasionaly so regardless of your home broadband, it's still not a guaranteed means of signalling. The "dual path" Smartcom that is rumoured is likely to come with some kind of...

Apple is generally pretty stable, I have problems with my S8 using the Connect app slide buttons. It seems to take a few attempts to get it to remember the settings but my work iPhone is fine. Don't think it matters which zone the wireless bell box goes on to, I've never fitted one though if...

Is this an Android phone by any chance? I presume you're able to log in using the engineer code without any problems but the user codes are causing a problem? You could try going into the app as engineer again then do a "sync panel", especially if you have changed any data/codes since the app...

Try logging into the app with the engineer code (this should always let you in) then check that the "Use App" button is enabled for each user in the Manage Users section.

Shouldn't need to open any ports in the router to connect to the panel via Smartcom. Are you using the latest version of Wintex? I presume the Smartcom is setup and working? You could try looking at the connected devices in your router, find the IP that has been assigned to the Smartcom via...

The little black block is a magnet, it seems to be missing from your front door (this is why it shows as active all the time) It usually comes in the same plastic housing as the actual contact and can be screwed in place but perhaps there wasnt enough room to do this (every door is different)...

Install Wintex, create a new account with the correct panel type and version, click Connect and then Connect Via Smartcom, it'll ask you for an app code (generate one from the app, or via the keypad - Menu 7 then option 4) and away you go.