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Do you have the Com IP connected to com port 1 on the panel? Might be worth enabling the "Use Com 1" option in Config 2.

You can still use the old keypad app with the Smartcom if you wanted to, you just need to forward port 10001 to the Smartcom in the router.

No worries, glad it's worked for you. You can do loads with the custom outputs for sure!

It's telling you in the setup guide, config 1 option 7 needs to be enabled (when you get to config 1, press no then 7 then yes) I never had any luck getting the notifications to work on the old app to be honest, but best of luck to you.

Best bet is probably via one of the custom outputs (see screenshot) Stage 1 and 2 are OR outputs, so either the PC control or Area A alarm conditions will trigger stage A (program output 5 on your panel as Custom 1 Stage A) You might have to play around with the invert attributes on Stage 1 and...

Yeah, perhaps a factory restart might be an idea. There should be no issue with having the zones just in area A and then using the 3 part sets to isolate individual detectors depending on your requirements. At home for instance, I have the house as area A with a night set, perimeter only and a...

I would start by putting everything back into area A. This could be confusing things as you have all of the zones in areas ABCD but not everything on the system is assigned to areas ABCD (your full arm and part arm comms settings for instance) When you're arming the system fully and triggering a...

Sounds like there are a few things incorrectly programmed. I have the same setup with an S8 at home which works brilliantly. Do you have any areas other than A in use? Areas aren't usually required in a domestic situation, unless you have a seperate garage/shed that you want to arm...

The Euromini and Deltabell would be a good choice if you're considering an upgrade. The Sterling 10 was never a brilliant panel when it was new and the ones we have to look after at work haven't aged well. I went to one on Wednesday where the panel tamper switch had simply broken from its...

The panic circuit looks like a single wire return to me, especially with the white wire coming from the bell box cable. Not ideal, but it does work. The green looks like it used to be part of the global tamper which probably developed a fault, hence it's now linked out.

It's difficult to say what is going on from what you describe. You would normally only need to use relays if you're going over the switching current capacity of the panel output (most bell/strobe outputs will have a maximum rating, usually around 500ma) Using relays, I would be connecting the...

If you are having the whole house refurbished then it makes sense to go wired. No point going to the added expense and future maintenance/battery costs of wireless if you can get cables in easily. As for monitoring, it's completely up to you. You don't have to have either the app or police...

The mini is a great panel for the money. As above, if you enable Simple Set, it's two button presses to arm and just the code to disarm. Fitted a few and never had any issues with them.

My personal recommendation would be the Pyronix Euro Mini if you're after something that you won't be needing to expand much in the future. Failing that, upgrading the Excel to an Elite 24 for about £120 gives you scope to add wireless devices and a Smartcom for app control etc.

There is no "live stream" on Hikvision cameras as such. You have the main stream which is what the camera is recording at and the substream which is generally only used for viewing at a lower quality/bandwidth. In the ivms 4500 app, the ivms 4200 software and web browser, you have the option to...

You can use Output 1, you just need to program it as described in my first reply. The negative from the relay is connected to the output, the positive of the relay goes to the 12v aux supply

There's 2 wired zones in the keypad, if you have spare cores you can use one of those. I would put the relay in a plastic adaptable box in the loft, run a 6 core alarm cable to the panel and treble up the cores if you're worried about volt drop (red/white/yellow as +, the rest to the output)

Absolutely, I guess some people like the complicated way. Me? GJD all the way!

Trying to control the lights through the alarm system is probably over-complicating it a bit. Have you looked into the GJD lighting control systems? Obviously it's an additional cost, but will do what you need out of the box. To do it through the alarm, you could set it up like this: Connect...

MX40 have two jumper links to adjust the sensitivity of the detector, pulse count 2/4 adjusts the PIR (4 is less sensitive) and the long/short jumper adjusts the range of the microwave. Pulse 2 and short range should be OK in most domestic rooms. Regarding resistors, that's been covered loads...