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I have always downloaded from the portal, extracted the file onto my desktop, then transferred the firmware file (should be "digicap.dav" file) onto a USB stick. Plug into the machine, go to maintenance and upgrade.

My first port of call would be to contact your reseller for the correct firmware version. Is it a genuine UK machine? If it's an import (eBay?) you'll risk bricking the machine by trying to update it.

It will always say it's up to date when you press the button, I'd be almost certain that it's not the latest version. What model NVR do you have? Finding the correct firmware can be a nightmare without the correct details.

Sounds like you need to upgrade the firmware on your NVR to support the new cameras. Quite a common occurrence with Hikvision gear in my experience (and a pain in the backside)

Think you have answered your own question! The installation height will have a big impact on the detection sensitivity with pet immune PIRs due to the way they work to "ignore" animals. I would try mounting them within the range recommended by the manufacturer, arm the system, wait for one...

The prox tag part of the Smart Key I would suspect is physically seperate to the radio fob and as such will need learning in seperately. You can add the prox part of the smart key to the same user slot as the radio part. With regards to the second issue, check that you have "Radio 2 step arm"...

About £24 a pop on Security Warehouse, which is about right for a decent DT.

I have Aico mains smokes in my house, they've been very reliable and are reasonably unobtrusive looking compared to some of them. You could use radio linked detectors if it is more convenient to wire them to separate mains supplies. With regards to decommissioning the existing system, you...

I would guess that this system dates from the mid-late 80's (I removed one around 2 years ago from a building constructed in 1986) My advice would be to remove this system and go with mains powered interlinked smoke/heat detectors if you're converting back to a house. A proper fire alarm system...

At work, we install Guardall DT15+ dual techs by the hundred and get very few problems that can be blamed on the detector itself. My own house has mixture of Optex MX40QZ dual techs and RX40QZ PIRs, never had an issue with any of them either.

Any room or area that is likely to suffer from extremes or sudden changes of temperature needs to be covered by a dual tech, so that would include lofts, garages, outbuildings, conservatories etc. Your average internal room in a house should be pretty stable, temperature wise so a good PIR won't...

If you simply want to know that the alarm has activated, connect the 12v and 0v connections on the dialer to the 12v/0v Aux connections on the panel to power it. Then, connect the bell output on the panel to TR1 on the dialer.

They do go to sleep, try putting the system into walk test, don't walk in front of the detector for about 5 minutes, then try to trigger it again.

Is this the live image or recorded? Can you post a picture of the images you're getting? I would suspect most of these "plug and play" CCTV kits will come setup to provide the best images out of the box. How are you viewing the images? (HDMI input on TV, smartphone etc)

To be fair, the post was answered in the first reply, not sure why it has dragged on for this long. Been installing and maintaining systems with dualtechs fitted in garages, lofts, sheds, warehouses etc for years without problems. Bernard, beams mounted to the doors are going to false alarm...

As the guys have said, a good quality dual tech detector is going to give you the best protection with no issues providing that it is adjusted and sited as per the manufacturer's instructions. If you want absolute belts and braces, then a Pyronix TMD set to "tricover" mode will do the job.

Sounds like there is a data issue between the keypads and the main control panel. The keypads will display the version number when they have power but can't communicate with the panel. Did you ever have anything on the display other than what it shows now? IE before the reset was attempted...

Connect the 12v, bell trigger and strobe trigger of both boxes to the 12v, bell trigger and strobe trigger connections on the control panel. Connect the 0v connection of the panel to the 0v connection on the first bell, connect a link wire from 0v to one of the T terminals in the first bell...

If you're knocking the place about, then go for wired every time. You can run the cabling under the floorboards (If it's chipboard, that will come with it's own issues) and then chase the cable into the plaster down to the window frame. A bit of filler, sand down and paint and your never know...

Go for shock sensors instead of contacts on the windows, especially if they are uPVC frames. The chances of forcing a locked uPVC window open from outside are quite slim, so a contact would be useless in most means of entry. Far more likely to have a brick lobbed through the glazing, which if...