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Fibres are used more to reduce minor cracking in the slabs. Rebar is there to hold the cracked pieces together.

Look.into the way paving slabs are produced and the materials used, as it's similar in that it's thin concrete in a mould. Paving expert website will probably have some info on the subject.

Standard plasticizer is mainly an air entraining agent. When mixed up properly, it keeps thousands of tiny air bubbles in the mix which act as mini ball bearings and make it workable with the minimum amount of water. Without it you need more water which weakens the mix. It's especially important...

20mm down is too big for what you want. You need 10mm down. You could also add a bit more coarse, sharp sand. Mix it up for longer to get a bit more air into the mix and it will be workable without adding too much water.

They sometimes jam the drill as well.

Stone walls in cottages were often around 20 inches thick. It's unusual for an 18inch brick wall to be used on a 2 storey cottage.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^ This is the answer. A cavity wall can have unrendered concrete blocks on the outer skin.. Unless they are designed as face blocks they won't look as good, but where you can't see them won't matter. The main issue with builds like this is the debris like leaves that build up in the gap.

The amount of moisture getting into a chimney flue varies in different situations. External flues with tall, large stacks are more exposed to penetrating damp. Ones on the party wall with short ones much less. When chimneys first started getting blocked up on a large scale in the early 70's...

A 50's house with a lintel of that size was probably cast in situ with the rebar (hooked ends) laind in place as it was cast.

There will be a solution, but it depends how much cash he wants to throw at it.

I've had a couple of bolts to the floor joists for over 20 years holding mine up.

They often used black ash mortar in areas near the collieries. https://www.preservationexpert.co.uk/effect-of-mortar-type-on-wall-tie-corrosion/

If the beds are 5mm or less, a very fine sand would be used, as the sand particles in a coarse sand would be too large. I'd use lime mortar myself with a really fine sand. There are firms like Limebase who will match the colour for you...

You can hire mobile bathrooms.

I prefer trays with an upstand as well. Never get a leak problem, and you don't even need a silicone bead along the bottom.

When it was built it most likely had a cavity tray. On big sites the standard was a 6x6 concrete lintel on the inner skin, 18 inch hyload as a tray coming over a timber window, and either a soldier course over the top, or 3 courses of brickwork with bricktor in the bed joints. Catnic lintels...

Damp issues in chimneys are caused by a variety of things. Whether it's an external or internal breast makes a difference. the height, size, design, materials used, whether it's lined or parged, and condition of the stack will also affect it. As with any damp problem, the first step is to...

Downdraughts in chimneys can be caused by trees that are higher than the chimney close by.

Venting a chimney from the inside or outside depends on the situation, and neither is perfect for every situation. Venting from the outside can cause cold spots on the inside wall which will attract condensation. Venting from the inside can take damp air from the room into the flue. A chimney...

I've built fireplaces like that with a pre-cast lintel with integral throat and gather. There should be a dovetail brick that goes back in the opening. As noseall said in his more technical explanation, the fireback should be non structural to anything. A bit like this, but with a dovetail...