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Glad it worked out. Thanks for letting us know the outcome.

Impossible to say without looking at the job. It depends on ease of access, the amount of cutting back, whether concrete from previous posts needs to be chopped out and disposal of the old fence and prunings.. The materials are about £600 and it sounds like 3-4 mandays. I don't think £1400 is...

A bit on the high side based on what I'd charge but then again, if I had to live in outer london I'd have to charge more or stave.

You're supposed to put the estate in the garage, not the other way round.:mrgreen:

Ok. At any part of the casing that is designed to come apart there is likely a pressure switch which will cut the power for safety reasons when taken apart. If not seated correctly on reassembly it will not work.

Hedge trimmer will be fine. It might go a bit brown if you trim back hard but ivy is pretty indestructable.

Have you checked the fuse in the plug?

In that case, plenty of porridge is recommended before following my advice :mrgreen:

Lift em up, turn em over and put em back down again.

You will be fine with the smaller stuff if it's just a storage shed. Personally I would use 4*2 because I always over engineer my own garden buildings and insulate them. It gives extra strength, rigidity and durability - at a cost, but it means that attaching workbenches and heavy stuff is no...

Yep, will be fine for a basic shed.

Either is going to be stronger than that used in mass produced sheds so take your pick.

The sleeve anchors will work. Frame fixers might work too.

At £100 they will all be one of a few generic Chinese made models with different badges on. If the reviews are good it's worth a punt for light use but don't expect anything at that price to stand up to years of heavy use.

It depends on how big the screws are, whether you drill pilot holes and what the material is you are screwing into. 4*50 into piloted softwood isn't going to be a problem. 6*100 straight into oak is another matter. If you don't want a chuck why not an impact driver? 80Nm upwards from a 10.8V.

I have the Makita 4350 and I can't fault it but I guess any of the trade brands will be fine. Go for one that is also available in 110V to be sure of getting a good one.

If you already have cordless tools, buy a bare one that uses the same battery and charger. That said, since you have access to one is it really worth buying one unless you are flush with cash? I rarely use mine either at home or for work.

Yes, most of the 10.8 kits are drill/driver and impact plus (optionally) a torch. You can also buy 10.8 combi's. I find them fine for what I consider tight spaces but If space is really tight I would have thought an angle drill would be what you need. You will struggle at first with an impact...

Definitely better to be off the ground to reduce the chances of rotting. Even with deep frogs, there should be enough meat on the brick to get thunderbolts in if you position the holes carefully.

Unfortunately so. I'd prefer none of them and less of ours.