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I don't know. It's a Vokera Compact 25. It appears to be getting worse. Now I'm losing pressure. I noticed a slight drop in pressure this morning, so topped it up to 1 bar and it's now dropped to 0.6 bar. I've been around the house again and can find no leaks from any of the rads. :(...

Woah, there! Making assumptions aren't we?! :shock: We paid for a gas inspection before we bought the property. The boiler was also given a clean bill of health by the previous owner. It is 2 years old and had a service history. I also had the boiler serviced as soon as I moved in! (With...

I'll check the filter. The boiler is a little noisier than I recall (but we only moved in in May), but everything else is fine.

So it's supposed to significantly drop when it's working? It's not behaved like this before.

I have just noticed that the pressure gauge on my boiler drops by 0.5-0.75 bar when the heating comes on, or I turn a hot tap on. When I turn the heating off/hot water off, the pressure goes back up again (1 bar). I have been around the house and can find no leaks on any of the radiators...

It's just the one lamp, from a single cord in the centre of the room. It's a 42W bulb. I have tried another bulb, with the same results. There have been no bulb failures. Something else has started happening now... The dimmer is back to back with the switch that controls the rear 'dining...

I recently replaced a normal on/off switch with a dimmer. One of these. At first it worked fine. The mains halogen bulb dimmed as I would expect. But the other day it stopped dimming all the way. It used to dim all the way to nearly off, but now it just dims the smallest amount; hardly...

Can I ask what research and considerations you...considered...when deciding on Aluminium bi-folds? I'm currently looking at uPVC, but haven't considered Aluminium due to some pre-conceived notions (dated, cold). That is, until I stumbled across a company that sells them and had a website with...

I went looking at bi-folding doors this afternoon and was offered, amongst others, two versions of a three section installation. The first had a door on the left. It was hinged on the left and opened/closed like a traditional door. The other two sections were sliding and slid to the right...

Yeah, running the cable will be simple and I promise to be neat. ;) So, to summarise: 2.5mm heat resistant (butyl) cable would be preferable to the 1.5mm HR I have. However, the 1.5mm HR cable is still preferable to the 2.5mm, non-HR T+E* I'll also be going direct to the switch...

Would this be any good? (I already have some.) Or would 2.5mm be recommended? (I'd have to buy some.) There is no CCU behind where the oven will be; just the switch in a neighbouring larder unit. Is one required to meet current regs?

My oven has finally been delivered and I wanted to know if I can wire it in myself? Or is it a notifiable job? (Get a spark in.) The electrician that recently re-wired my house has pre-installed a cooker switch in the cupboard adjacent to where the oven will be. The oven has no lead, but...

Thanks. There are no earths. :? Edit: All hooked up and working a charm.

I've picked up a new wireless controller (CMT927) and need some instruction on where to place the wires. The old setup was thus: 2 pairs of wires (brown and blue). One coming from the switch below. The other leading to the boiler. The three holes across the top are NC / COM / NO...

I already have the robot arm painting my hall; the wall-papering machine doing my living room; a robot mowing my lawn and one vacuuming my carpets; now I want a wifi thermostat. Thanks for your concern regarding my finances, though.