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I would speak to the DNO first - I would imagine with the building being an old commercial supply it should be up to the task, but if it's not, their requirements will determine what you can do. Around here, there are two (main) options for multiple supplies They dislike the second option...

There's a number of reasons, but realistically, if you want 8 sockets, 4 twins is the best way to do it. You'll notice that on both of those sockets one of the outlets is fused (maybe more than one on that nasty converta). That's hardly an ideal arrangement.

I have a couple of Big Larry torches. Because it's not a focused beam it lights up a much bigger area. Magnetic too so great for working on DBs with the power off

I'm surprised too. When I had BG fit an isolator at my parents they upgraded the meter from mechanical to digital. Maybe with the smart meter roll out they're only changing meters as needed

Yup that's correct. The push is just a momentary switch

I very much doubt it will make all that difference. How far are you wanting to extend it? Using connector blocks for bell wire will work, but strip more than you need back and double the ends over as it's so thin you'll make a better connection that way

Sounds like a reasonable cost to me. He's probably allowed half a day plus materials. Not unreasonable but also understandable you want to do it yourself

I would tend to agree with you, but there's many others who wouldn't. Yes they do. One appears to be in a normal room, and one's in the bathroom. They're both Greenrbook though (probably the same model).

I'd be getting a glazier in personally and losing both of those ugly-ass fans. Both rooms have opening windows so no requirement for a fan and the bathroom window even has an air vent built into it. I've been somewhat trying to find a zone 1 suitable centrifugal fan (I know these aren't CF)...

Enlite E8s are the way to go if you want a decent downlight. 73mm ish cutout. Not sure if they do an adjustable one but they make dimmable one The new E6 Pro is supposed to be just as bright and 6w instead of 8w but have not fitted any yet to say if they're worth it or not

Hi current testing is MUCH more accurate on my 1552. I dislike the three wire no-trip test. It's super slow and the slightest bit of noise on the circuit makes the reading a joke (luckily they're so wrong it's obvious) That being said, it's always higher on no-trip by anywhere from 0.20Ω to...

The incomers do. But the consumer tails are now flapping in the breeze from the meter to CU. I suspect the butcher just pulled the old tails from the meter live.

Impossible to say without knowing how old it is (it was installed for many, many years). But very rarely do you see a correctly installed and used piece of PVC T+E that NEEDS replacing. Rewires are often due to other factors - the actual cable is often sound. That being said, if there's any...

Then you will need a 3-core and earth to your light fitting. This will need to contain a Live, Switched Live and Neutral. If the neutral is coming from elsewhere (not in the back of the switch box) you'll just need a Twin and Earth to the switch, and a twin and earth from wherever the neutral is...

If it's stranded it's nearer the end of it's life than if it was solid core T+E but chances are it's still perfectly serviceable

No. Neutrals do not go to light switch terminals. Because there's a black/blue there doesn't mean it's a neutral. Do you want the switch to override the lights or just be able to turn them off entirely from the switch?

It just means the new one will accept bigger cables. Not a problem

DIN rail is for holding MCBs etc in place. Busbar is the copper link at the bottom of the MCBs.

:whistle::whistle:

If there was space you'd just cut the busbar (common live rail) short - it may only extend to the MCBs that are there if there's spare ways, in your case it will fill the consumer unit. Adding a second enclosure for 3 DIN rail meters wouldn't be a big job, it'd be done like TicTac describes. Or...