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Need much more information! A photo might help, but a list of components could mean anything! There's been no communal lighting for an entire year? I hope you don't pay much of a management fee!!

Is it a structural piece of timber? If it isn’t cut it out of the way! There’s already some scorch marks on the timber so I can’t say putting another fitting back there is a good idea - yes LEDs run cooler but not cold. And if it’s so close you can’t get a GU10 cap in but you can get a GU5.3...

*shrug*

AFAIK it's just the old MEM RCDs that had FE connections. Which is ironic because Eaton are now one of the only (reputable!) manufactures that don't use a FE on their RCBOs. Eaton's reasoning is Edit: Coincidental unrelated bit of bit of research has just led me to discover the new Hager...

You could be correct there. The spec sheet doesn't really go into more detail than I put in my post though so I can't expand on what I've written.

I'm with you on this one. MICC if you want the copper look

It will probably run for an amount of time, but it will soon overheat and cut out. This could be a fairly long time, or a matter of seconds. You'll find the driver would become very warm, very quickly which is obviously not idea. You might also get some flickering/flashing as the driver...

Well the Schneider isn't necessarily saying there's dangerous voltage on the cpc, just that there's a voltage difference between you and the PE from the circuit. The spec sheet says the threshold for this test is <35vac dependant on coupling to earth. This could mean, due to the all important <...

What was that compression fitting made off with?! :cry: And what holds it into the socket? I didn’t realise they did ‘locknuts’ for them

I too would call it a wire nut! My iPhone seems to think it’s a wire but!

I wouldn’t But, it could so long as it was really obviously feeding a socket and not being a pipe but you wouldn’t get 2x2.5 down a 15mm pipe so you’d need a 22 which is obviously bigger than 20mm conduit. On top of that, you would struggle like crap to make the tube off into the socket. And...

Well you’re gonna wanna cut the burnt wires in the middle, and then it looks like each arm is screwed in individually so once you’ve cut the cables you could remove and rewire each arm one at a time. You can’t really reinsulate the cables but if there is some slack you could re-terminate. That...

Nice shower valve! Head looks like it would be good but not very aesthetically pleasing

As per my post above, take it down and see if you can disassemble the lamp holders. If you can't without breaking them then you're looking at £20-30 in lamp holders alone, plus some cable.

You can have that job! If I were inclined to rewire it, I'd start by checking I could disassemble the lamp holders before I spent any money on anything. They could be crimped/riveted into place. Same goes for the cabling into them.

It would be a somewhat big task to rewire it yes, and tbh, not worth it. I'd start looking at new fittings.

I’m afraid to say, probably not. If there’s enough slack that you can cut back to get to clean un-burnt copper insulation then you could repair but doesn’t look like there’s much slack. How old is the fitting? That’s clearly a manufacturers defect (so long as you didnt overload it with higher...

It's all just physics! Glad it was a nice simple fix. I absolutely detest fans in bathrooms, and have never had one in a room with an opening window, and never had a problem with damp/condensation - just opening the window is often enough, as you've found out.

Well tube in the wall's out then! I'll adjust to 1. MICC/Pyro clipped to the walls 2. Steel conduit clipped to the walls In that order, because MICC is much easier to hide (see photo) steel conduit is big and bulky and great if you're going for a retro/industrial look but I'm not sure that...

John has a fair point, galv tube would look alright but you do have to think about how it goes into the ceiling (if thats the way it goes) plasterers almost always make it look awful. This is option 1 (credit to RF Lighting)