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If it's a fair face brick wall, then you have two options for wiring IMO. 1. Pyro/MICC neatly clipped 2. Conduit drops behind the fair face brick - depends on wall construction but could also be capped down the other side and drilled through Use some quality metalclad sockets and it'll look...

That’s about a standard price for it, the Screwfix price is just expensive. Doesn’t make it any more helpful for the OP though even if it was £12

I don’t doubt that your memory is longer than mine! But I’m aware of those posts, not really aware what the content was like but I dread to think of the effort involved! Assuming you’re referring to what I’m thinking of

Winston? :whistle:

I’m aware what the document says, but I’m also not basing my information solely on said document, that was for your information. I’ve had many a conversation with various WPD employees about jointing and they are under strict instructions to spike cables on every occasion in the field. The...

Sorry, I don’t quite understand how I could possibly have missed out a word that does not occur ONCE in the document. What were you saying about misleading?

Didn’t read the linked document then

They are pretty super!

Don’t know what crap grommets you use but if you bought decent ones, then they wouldn’t. Never have a problem with the ones we buy falling out

Well, ironically, considering how pompous your post was. It’s factually incorrect. WPD HAVE to spike an HV cable to prove dead every time they want to work on it beyond a sheath repair, whether it’s inside a building or not (as unlikely as that may be, it’s not unheard of - we worked on a job...

HV. As they aren’t allowed to work on HV live they have to isolate the supply and lock it off (standard procedure ofc) but then they have to verify it’s dead by spiking the cable. If all has gone to plan, nothing bad happens! If they’ve locked off the wrong circuit - there’s a rather...

That’s why they have special tools, plastic bladed knives, wedges to press in between the cores, insulated hacksaws etc They work live every day on all kinds of cable so they can usually identify what cable type, size and condition just by looking at it. The only cables they don’t work live...

Was reading this the other day. Interesting read.

Off the top of my head I’d say backbox from switchplate - only based on the fact you’d take a socket earth to the socket first and then earth the backbox. You’d be mad to do I the other way for sockets. It doesn’t REALLY matter so long as both are suitably earthed.

The discussion isn't related to a shopping centre or factory. It's related to a domestic property where there is (presumed to be) no cpc on the lighting circuit. That does change things a little, because with no cpc and assuming you're not carrying out L-N IR that means the only other test you...

I think we'll both agree the lug on the left is adjustable and the lug on the right, which you can't quite see properly, appears to be an adjustable, based on the form of the bend you can just about make out. It would normally be bent the other way for a fixed lug

Plus that box has two adjustable lugs so the earth path from plate to box would be rubbish. Flying lead is the way to go

I'm somewhat confused by this and your previous post re: insurers not being happy with PVC cables in a thatched roof. The OP has never said they're not happy, rather that the current (or rather former) insurers were perfectly happy with the current installation. Bernard is the only one who has...

I would arrange to have your own EICR carried out at your own cost - in the grand scheme of things it's not a lot of money. You already know the lighting circuit is going to need a rewire in the very near future, and you're looking in the region of £1500-2000 for that (just a ballpark figure, I...

My keys don't have any print on them - they're backlit (y) Back to the thread.....My vote is also for the Fluke 1AC-II. It's the most reliable one I've used. That LAP one detects voltage if you wave it around in the air. And the Kewtech one they sell detects voltage if you rub it up and down...