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Yea what Rocky said too. Definitely should have mentioned that! o_O

Clearly those are not exact measurements. Was something like 236v and 412v.

Oh I see what you mean. Yea it could be one of those either/or situations. Or as Guitarguy has suggested, they’ve had to replace at least one of the fuses to get those two phases back on line. I don’t suspect this is the case in this situation though because it would appear they were unaware...

That’s ridiculous. Not even re-usable bags

That sounds like a reasonable explanation. Also seems like a risky ‘fix’ when there are 3P+N supplies on that supply. John, no because once one fuse has blown, L1 and L2 are simply now L1. The connection to L2 has now gone.

Assuming it’s all enclosed in the light fitting and not pushed up into the ceiling it’s fine. Wouldn’t hurt to remove the tape and check the screws are tight. You don’t necessarily need to put more tape on afterwards. The light fitting is acting as the enclosure

Yea just one 3P MCB feeding the oven, the rest are all SP. Tested it at the isolator to begin with and worked our way all the way back to the suppliers isolator. Same fault all the way back. Just spoken to my boss and WPD have identified the fault and are digging up the road as we speak...

So we got called out to a cake shop/bakery today with a new 3P+N oven that wasn't working. Tested all 3 phases to E/N - 230V Testing phase to phase L1-L2 - 0V L1-L3 - 415V L2-L3 - 415V Clearly not a phase down, but seemingly L1&L2 connected to the same phase somewhere. Definitely a 3P+N...

It’s a BS table anyway. I wouldn’t worry about it

Why does it? Complies with the contentious table 52.3

Yea it's the DNO that will need to change it and it will be free should they deem it does need changing. Have a look here, find yours and give them a call. They'll likely send someone to take a look and they'll decide whether or not to change it. Chances are they may just change it there and...

I suspect it could be a pre-wired 3C flex jobbie and that’s the only terminal block available. I could be wrong

That's nothing. The rewire we did in the weeks leading up to Christmas had the 2-wire stat wired in T+E. Fine you say? Nooo, they'd given it a neutral it didn't need, a perm live and used the bare cpc as the switched line. And if that wasn't bad enough, they'd sleeved the core GY! To say I was...

It's also going to be a big mess of cables crossing over each other as they go up/down for accessories. If they were all straight drops down it would be MUCH easier. As has been said you can do this quite easily without damaging the ceiling. Get the plaster chopped off the wall for the drop...

Do you not isolate your porter before carrying out electrical work?? :ROFLMAO:

Isolate the porter then try bypassing the timer module first. If you take the cover off (iris needs to be closed) you’ll see the cables going into some terminals and then the other side of that they connect to two more terminals. Remove the module and cables, then connect the live and neutral to...

Untitled by Iggifer posted 14 Jun 2013 at 11:55 AM Untitled by Iggifer posted 14 Jun 2013 at 11:55 AM As you can see they line up but the MEM2 is a much wider terminal and as such the 2 busbar prongs are much wider than those on the 3 so they don’t fit. Height is also considerably different on...

Yea Eaton MR30 RCBO pod - as above but they’re EXPENSIVE. If you just want to fit one RCBO then it’s not too bad but any more and you may as well consider changing the board. MEMshield 3 do not fit, they changed the bus bar arrangement. Think I might have a photo

Yup had LED tape in the back of my van for the past 2 years - still going strong. Not sure about the output of a 12v battery as I’ve never measured it but I do know the alternator puts out 14.5v ish volts and they survive that seemingly fine so shouldn’t matter if the battery output is...

I'll be honest, that sketch has just confused me. Which side is the wall? And a link/picture of the actual light might help