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You say they’re dimmable....fit a dimmer?

Looking at the rest of it, I would wager terribly. Some reversed polarity? If there’s more than one set of meter tails coming from the head, which there appears to be...then surely some stuff was unmetered? Or is that just the photo?

MEM is now Eaton. They still make MEM stuff but it’s Eaton branded. They make consumer units but IMO they’re not as nice looking as Hager or Schneider but in terms of quality those three would be my top 3. Probably Schneider, Eaton and Hager in that order. I fitted an all RCBO Eaton CU in my...

Well so long as both lights on this switch are on the same circuit you won’t need to pull in any more cables. Essentially it boils down to, disconnecting one of the live and switch lives from a pendant, then connecting it up as a switch live and neutral. You’ll obviously need to know which...

I assume you mean switches not having neutrals rather than circuits, but it’s kind of 50/50. New wiring now will take the neutral to the switch a lot of the time, it used to be just taken to the ceiling Rose and the live and switched live down to the switch. The advent of spots and other forms...

Oh yea totally. For some reason WPD list the 500mm lay depth as the 'max' depth. Seems a bit odd but that's what their document says

Western power work on the following ground temperatures. I personally think the winter one is a bit on the high side but these are all based on a lay depth of 500mm so it could well be Autumn - 12°C Winter - 10°C Spring - 12°C Summer - 15°C

It’s actually got a sustained rating of between 360-390A and a cyclic rating of 398-441A (lower number is ali neutral, higher is extra copper neutral core). Obviously only new installations will use wavecon, older PILC 185mm is good up to ~500A under the same situation. If it’s 20 odd years...

The DT90E. Escaped me for a second there

I don’t think the digital Honeywell (non programmable) stat needs a neutral as it’s battery powered. Just line and switched line

She’s obviously a Honeywell T6360 mech stat. Classic in the day and not ugly now, but looking a touch dated

Are you mad?! The Nest is Rachael Riley and the Hive is the bloke that does countdown

MK make Bayonet fittings with shutters over the pins. Turning the lamp into the holder opens the shutters. Maybe you should buy him one!

If it's heating up and not tripping that would suggest it's the thermostat, not the element. Have you verified the oven temperature with a probe vs what the dial says?

You need to solve the damp problem first and foremost. Whatever kind of lamp you put in is somewhat irrelevant.

There’s a major substation somewhat near me, fairly sure WPD use it for some level of stores, there’s always a few vans coming and going. On the road to get to said substation (dead end road) there’s an abandonded building basically falling down with no roof with a 3P&N cutout that you could...

if you believe the RS price........ I would have gone with red spots too

Make sure you go for K4899WHI not K4900WHI as that's retractive and you'd have to stand there holding your outside light on!

Or it may be the timer module that has gone

Eric it's just a mirror light so 61558-2-5 definitely won't be concerned with the fitting. It's only IP44 so may well be modifiable but I'm sure there's a better way. OP, how do you currently switch your bathroom lights on? Pull cord? If you pop up into the loft and trace the cables there's...