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The glazing bars in between the sheets. Some self support bars are 60mm higher than the poly.

75mm isn’t that much really. Especially if you have tall bars. We always use a 12” lead on our poly jobs. Yes you can put a nice bead of fixall crystal clear between the lead and the poly. Ct1 is going to look like squashed bugs from the inside looking up. As long as it’s original render and not...

Don’t use hollow on a newbuild. It’s designed to be fixed to a solid backing.

Oh dear...

No idea. Why do you need to know? It’s a lot of water. Put it this way you could have a 68mm downpipe coming off a 150mm gutter and it still does the job (even though you are supposed to use soil stack)

I remember when I cut an Ali reinforced glazing bar with a grinder and the wheel snatched and went through my jeans and into my leg. A long time ago when it was quicker to use the grinder rather than a cutting bench, clamp and the correct saw.

I’d get planning for one big leant tiled roof all the way. Forget your neighbours, they could move out next month and the new people slam a huge extension their side. It’s all about you having the most space inside and adding value.

And not enough clips on the soil stack 2 doors down.

You’re probably better off just overlaying it with a new piece of plastic sheet.

Cracked tile bottom right of pic btw

I don’t see an issue here

Your roof like that is probably more watertight than new builds with big pan tiles.

Picture be good mate

If you use that foam to join the poly roof to the render then it will look an absolute shower of shyte. You’d be better off simply butting it up and leaving it with nothing at all or filling it with 100 tubes of clear silicone. You’ve asked advice on a roofing forum and Notch gave you the right...

We did one of these about 11 years ago. We nicked a bit of the top of the fascia out and used top hung rafter brackets and gently bent them to suit. Worked pretty well.

Is it the original render or is it that plant on external insulation stuff that’s rendered over which is about as watertight as a sponge.

So like this (I’m on a train)

You’ve still got to put another cap on the top course albeit cut down. Then you have to think of a way to close in just the very top return.

So the only way to go about this properly is to rip off the old roof completely down to the joists and start again with a decent felt roof installed by an experienced felt roofer. Don’t have GRP or rubber. Don’t get 75 quotes and go for the cheapest. Good luck.