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What brand are you using as the main colour? If it's expensive then I probably would go over the purple first with some Leyland trade acrylic primer/undercoat. This dries very quickly ready for the top coats. It's about 17 quid for 2.5l you can also use it to undercoat all your woodwork if...

It may take 3 coats but there shouldn't be a need for any undercoat mixed in. I'm guessing it'd be water based paints? You need a decent emulsion rather than some thin cheap stuff.

So do you want to just patch a piece of paper in somewhere or paper over a whole wall?

Do you have any pictures?

You can get a blade that will cut the ceiling edge from poundland. But most likely the wallpaper will be lying on top of the ceiling edge and when wet will pull off. Just a slight pull around the ceiling edge with a cheap plastic blade will sort it.

It does. What's above it?

Problem is, the paste on the new paper will probably make the old paper wrinkle too. It does sound like it would come off fairly easy with a few soaks of water

The first coat of satin on top of acrylic undercoat is always a little tricky. Best thing is to get it on quick with a quick lay off. Then , when dry, a light sanding down and you should fine the 2nd coat goes on much better

What will the top coats be? Some paints don't adhere well to contract matts.

If bubbles weren't there to begin with they should go back down when dry. It's likely to be the paint underneath bubbling when it has got wet.

I think you will see the touch up anyway so it would probably be best to do the whole wall

You need to really load the roller up and use a good quality medium pile roller. You also need to do it fairly quickly and roll from the window wall to the wall opposite. A durable flat Matt would help but from the pictures it just likes like not enough paint used and it's been messed about...

Wetting it first is very important. Most of the time they pop out if someone is walking above the room.

If the paint underneath the new paint is bubbling then there will be a problem with that original paint sticking to the wall/bare plaster. In most cases it will bubble up when new paint is put on but then go back down again once dry. It could be originally there was grease spots on the wall or...

The dark bit aren't knots are they?

If it's showing through that dark I can't see how it was sanded back to light wood and in all honesty I don't think it needed to be sanded down to bare wood as the zinsser primer would block it out anyway before the top coats. Are you sure it hasn't been knocked?

Do you have any pictures? I was just about to recomend the Leyland primer which I always use over any filling I do but it seems in this instance something far more strange is going on.

What are the brackets like? It looks like the wrong fixings have been used in the wall. You may need some hollow wall anchors but I can't quite tell from the picture. To get the rad back in the original place it looks like you really need to fill the holes up good which will then be no good for...

I normally find, if it's definitely emulsion and not gloss, that dabbing with hot water, leave for 1 minute then dab again and gently scrape a finger nail on it.

What paint did you use? A mist coat is recommended on new plaster. A contract matt thinned down or a plaster paint. This allows moisture out of the plaster between coats which in this case I'd say it was still wet. Does it scrape off easy?