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My apologies, I will second that

They are indeed, thats why I said mine isn't and so was able to. They just clip in

Normally you put corner blocks in so that they are something like 2 to 5mm "thicker" than the skirtings. That way you achieve a visual "quirk" I know that's what you normally do, I'm looking and to me it looks like 70mm that's why I'm asking :-)

In the gold ole days, when' knights was bold' they used to burn the ends of them. Not sure now effective that is or the use of creasote, nice and smelly and maybe not a good idea where kids are playing.

Speaking of level bubbles, I have an old Stanley level, 40 years old at least the bubbles are replaceable,I managed to find some on fleebay, they did take 6 months to get here but do the job... Ok ok in the meantime I caved in and brought two stabila levels ha!

Paint them? Resurface them, keep them the same? Oil them (and the hinges ha!) (As well as open and close them)

Either way you need to treat it with tanaline if you have a large tray to soak them in? But you still have to buy the stuff which isn't cheap. When you dig the holes out, you could stick some course gravel underneath and around the posts a good layer, but it depends what movement it will have

What are you going to do with the doors?

So how big is the block? 23mm X 23mm ?

Jobandknock did say a small block? Looks rather large? What was wrong with 20mm X 20mm or similar?

Indeed I second that, what HAVE you been doing with that plane?! Or rather what HAVEN'T you been doing with that plane?! It's worth keeping your tools rust free and in good working order and be proud to work with them, when people see them they take a view of your work if they are look shi%te

Actually the shelf would ruin through and fixed upwards into the back. Then the weight of the shelf would be taken up and trapped by the 2 X 1

I've done something like this before, excuse the drawing, in solid pine. You can fix solid ends to them as well. So you have a solid back, then a shelf fixed through, with 2 X 1 underneath it. All the way along. You can fix through the back and the 2 X 1 to the wall studs. Then make timber...

Ha you have a good memory! Jubilee clip is what I was thinking about, my screw went walk about years ago but always on the look out for one, obviously not that hard as I've been doing it for the past 30 years ha Spiralux is a name I've of in there past I will have a look for kunz but not end of...

Funnily enough I was thinking the same about the refurb kits, with my other large Yankee being so old and the tiny screw missing bottom of the shaft, currently has a clip over it which use to be another thing we all used to do to stop them rolling away.. but as it wasn't too expensive to buy the...

I was paying attention teacher, years of shopfitting the attention span dissipates ha! I didn't understand that bit but now I've reread it, makes sense now sorry carry on :-) Yes polished surfaces makes a good target for yankees!

I've not seen one of those before, so what's the point?

I brought those two Yankees in the past year from flee bay, one looks like it's unused (the larger) and the other a bit more use but still in good nick. Good the bits with them, so they are still about. My original one I had as an apprentice 40 huhhumm.. years ago....is more worn but still used...

The glue or the Yankee? (Presuming glue) to be honest I ain't checked, but just have and its from just that website as far as i can tell, even Amazon dont sell it. I haven't used it either so its not a recommend either it was something I found after searching, Titebond apparently is melamine...

Or have a look on Ebay for Yankee screwdrivers, if you do just watch your pinkies, they extend and are sprung and can make holes in limbs if not treated with respect. Apparently searching, roo glue sticks melamine. https://rooglue.com/product/rooclear/